Things to Do in Amman

This ruins of this Crusader castle, formerly known as Mons Realis (Royal Mountain), date back to AD 1115 when they were built by Baldwin I of Jerusalem as a way to control the caravan and pilgrimage routes between Syria and the Arabian Peninsula.

Today much of the original fortifications lie in ruins. Calligraphic inscriptions on the exterior of the remaining walls date back to the thirteenth century, and within the castle, visitors will find remains of a small chapel, the original gatehouse and several Ottoman cottages. Two large buildings with arched entrances date back to the time of the Crusaders but were later used by the Mamluks as a school.

The brilliantly colored sands and stark rock formations of Jordan’s Wadi Rum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, make this desert wilderness a must-visit for most travelers to Jordan. Signature sights, typically visited by 4WD, include the Burdah Rock Bridge, a natural arch; the Khazali Siq, a narrow canyon; and the scarlet Al Hasany Dunes.

There is a small fee to enter the Wadi Rum protected area. Most visitors arrive either on a tour or to stay in one of the desert camps, which range from basic to luxurious. It is also possible to hire a Bedouin 4WD driver directly on arrival.

Wadi Rum is an essential stop on most multi-day Jordan tours, some of which include a night under the desert stars. At around four hours from Amman, it’s a challenging day trip, and better approached from Aqaba—although many would argue that without a night in the desert you’re missing out. Most Wadi Rum tours explore by 4WD, although some include a short camel ride, and longer camel safaris are also possible. Adventure activities include rock climbing and sandboarding.

Deep in the south of Jordan, Wadi Rum is about 45 minutes’ drive from Aqaba; guides and camps can generally arrange seats on the minibuses that run the route most of the year. Given that self-driving inside the protected area is only possible in a 4WD with a professional driver to supervise, many will find it easier simply to arrange a Wadi Rum tour that includes round-trip door-to-door transport.

Like other deserts, Wadi Rum can be surprisingly cold on a winter’s night and searingly hot at the height of summer. The tourist peak seasons of spring and fall (mid-March to mid-May and mid-September to mid-November) are also the most convenient times to visit. It’s worth spending the night to appreciate the stillness of the desert and the brilliance of the stars.

From Lawrence of Arabia to The Martian, Wadi Rum’s startling colors have long made it a popular film location. The area regularly stands in for Mars, and indeed for other planets: It serves as a setting for Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. One desert camp, inspired by The Martian, features domes in the style of the one Matt Damon’s character lived in during the movie.

With the Roman ruins of Gadara, an abandoned Ottoman village, and sweeping views over Jordan, Israel, and Syria, the little town of Umm Qais has a lot to offer the visitor. The undisputed highlight is the ancient city of Gadara, where the remains of Roman theaters, colonnades, and tombs enjoy a spectacular hilltop location.

Because it’s difficult and time-consuming to reach the ruins at Umm Qais by public transportation, most visitors either drive themselves or opt for an organized tour. Some day tours from Amman combine Umm Qais with the Roman ruins at Jerash. Full-day Umm Qais tours often include visits to the site’s small museum. Few visitors will be interested in the modern town, although hiking, biking, and even foraging are possible in the countryside.

It takes at least four hours and four vehicles to reach Umm Qais from Amman by public transport, so most visitors opt to drive, hire a driver, or join a tour with round-trip transfers. The 78-mile (125-kilometer) drive north from Amman takes around two hours in a private vehicle.

The beauty of Umm Qais’ location is best appreciated in spring (roughly mid-March to mid-May), when the hills are lush and green. April is the optimal time to see wildflowers flourishing in the hills and among the ruins of Gadara. The site is rarely crowded so there’s no need for an early start to your Umm Qais tour.

According to the Bible, it was at Gadara that Jesus exorcised demons from two possessed men and cast the evil spirits into a herd of pigs, which then ran down the hill into a lake. During its heyday 2,000-odd years ago, Gadara was an intellectual hub known for its writers, artists, philosophers, and academics.