Things to Do in Austrian Alps

The revered German-language poet Georg Trakl was born in Salzburg in 1887 and spent much of his short life building up a body of literary work that has remained with us long after he died in a military hospital in Krakow at the tender age of 27. He spent his formative years in the city and much of his work shines light on the Salzburg of the early 20th century, although he flitted restlessly around Austria, traveling frequently to Vienna and Innsbruck. Heavily influenced by the works and lifestyles of French symbolist poets like Baudelaire and Rimbaud, Trakl was soon heavily involved with drugs and also suffered from depression; it is suspected he may have committed suicide but this is not known for sure. 

Nevertheless his poetry attracted much praise attention and his reputation lives on. Many years after his death in 1914, his birthplace on Salzburg’s Waagplatz was converted to a museum in his memory in 1973. The story of his short life is told through extracts from his diaries, his poetry, photos and a movie based on his formative years.

Built in the early 17th century, Hellbrunn Castle served as a summer retreat for the Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg. Its baroque exterior conceals an exuberant interior made for entertaining, though the real draws are the whimsical trick fountains (Wasserspiele) in the gardens, which spew water from unexpected places.

Admission to Hellbrunn Castle includes a 40-minute guided tour of the gardens, a 40-minute audio tour of the palace itself, and access to the Folklore Museum, which houses a collection of objects and costumes associated with Austria’s Salzburg valley region.

Because of its location just a short hop south of Salzburg, Hellbrunn is often included on hop-on hop-off city tours. Some sightseeing passes include free admission to the castle as well as other top attractions such as Salzburg Zoo. The castle can also be visited as part of organized tours, which may combine a trip to the palace with a boat cruise along the Salzach River. The gazebo at Hellbrunn Castle served as the filming location for the “Sixteen Going on Seventeen” scene in The Sound of Music, so the castle is commonly included on Sound of Music tours. 

Hellbrunn Castle is 3 miles (4.5 kilometers) south of central Salzburg. To get here, ride the 25 bus from Salzburg’s main train station to Hellbrunn. Cycling from central Salzburg will take 25 minutes.

The castle and trick fountains are open from late March to early November. The best time to explore is in summer, as it’s easier to dry off under the warm sun. Summer is also, however, the busiest time. Try arriving first thing to get in ahead of the crowds. 

Designed to amuse and surprise, the trick fountains at Hellbrunn Castle are a lot of fun. In addition to a series of grottoes and water-driven figures, the palace grounds also feature some hidden fountains that spout when guests least expect it. Another highlight is the mechanical theater, where you can see 200 water-powered figures going about life in a typical Austrian city. 

Notable for its blob-like architecture, the Graz Art Museum was built as part of the city’s 2003 celebrations as the European Capital of Culture. The museum was constructed as part of the 19th century Iron House building, one of the first cast iron buildings in Europe. The famous exterior is comprised of nearly 1300 iridescent blue acrylic panels with almost a thousand 40-watt lightbulbs, creating a massive screen in the middle of the city. Known to some locals as the Friendly Alien, the museum covers 27,000 square feet and specializes in contemporary art, design, new media, film and photography. It regularly hosts events and exhibitions that highlight worldwide trends in art.

Crescent-shaped Lake Mondsee is often regarded as the gateway to the spectacular alpine scenery of the Salzkammergut (Austrian Lake District) west of Salzburg, and is surrounded by the snow-topped peaks of the Austrian Alps; it is a perfect summer base for hiking, biking, sailing, fishing and kayaking. 

The lake is edged by the lovely Baroque lakeside town of the same name, famous for its lemon-and-white, twin-spired St Michael’s Church, which is where Maria and Captain von Trapp were married in The Sound of Music. Apart from the Julie Andrews connection, Mondsee is a riot of gaily painted townhouses bordering its main square, with a lakeside promenade lined with elegant restaurants and a stunning backdrop formed by the craggy rock face of Drachenwand. Thanks to its proximity to Salzburg, Mondsee gets rammed with visitors every weekend; it is likely to be even busier in 2015 as the 50th anniversary of The Sound of Music brings more visitors into town.

Salzburg’s cathedral (Dom) is on the south side of the River Salzach and has Romanesque foundations, although today its appearance is exuberantly Baroque as it was rebuilt after a fire in 1598. Mozart was baptized here in 1756 and held the post of court organist from 1779, writing much of his early music to be performed in the cathedral. 

The museum is found on the upper floors of the cathedral, vaulted and stuccoed galleries with patterned marble floors all lavishly decorated with stags’ heads and exquisite furniture. It is dedicated to telling the story of the cathedral’s 1,300-year history and exhibiting religious art from the 15th to 18th centuries. Treasures in the collection include cabinets of curiosities squirreled away over centuries by Salzburg’s former ruling archbishop princes, glittering gold icons and relics, the priceless 8th-century Cross of St Rupert and a gold-and-purple enamel peace dove made in the early 13th century in Limoges. The cathedral and museum may now also be visited during a tour of the newly conceived DomQuartier Salzburg, which showcases the city’s Baroque charms and includes entry into several other museums. 

The state-of-the-art funicular railway connecting Innsbruck with its hilly suburb of Hungerburg was opened in 2007. This futuristic cable railway is the work of British Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, who was also responsible for the Ski Jump Stadium at Bergisel, and it provides the first link in the journey from the Congress Centre right up to the slopes of Hafelekar, which are as high as 7,545 feet (2,300 meters), in under half an hour.

The glittering Hungerburgbahn terminus at Congress strongly resembles the spaceship in Star Trek. On exiting the station, the funicular train crosses the River Inn before ascending 1.15 miles (1,838 meters) into the alpine foothills on the Hungerburg plateau. There are two stations on the line, including a stop at the Alpenzoo Innsbruck, Europe’s highest zoo.

From Hungerburg skiers, boarders and hikers can catch the Nordkettenbahnen cable car up to Seegrube, with panoramic views of the peaks in the Inn valley and Zillertal Alps from the gondolas. The Alpenlounge Seegrube at the cable car station has a terrace on which to enjoy the scenery along with a cocktail for two. A second cable car then journeys on up to Hafelekar in the Alpenpark Karwendel.

On the outskirts of Innsbruck, the slopes at Bergisel have been the home of Tyrolean ski jumping competitions since 1927. To celebrate this, British Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid designed a towering ski jump stadium, which was completed in 2002 and can seat 28,000 people. In 2008 Pope John Paul II gave Mass here and it has quickly became a year-round Innsbruck attraction as it soars 820 feet (250 meters) above the city and offers superb views over the Inn Valley and surrounding Alps.

The Tyrol Panorama, featuring a massive, century-old painting of the heroic Tyrolean revolt against Napoleon, is found at the foot of the sculptural stadium. From here, the top of the tower rises to 165 feet (50 meters) and is reached by funicular – or 455 steep steps – plus elevator. Here you’ll be rewarded with 360° views over the city and coffee and cakes in the Panorama Restaurant. Breakfast is served here daily until 11am; enjoy a glass of prosecco and scrambled egg while watching the sun light up the Alps.

January and February see ski jumping and freestyle competitions take place at Bergisel, while the stadium becomes a practice center for the Austrian ski team during the summer. In 2012 the Youth Olympic Winter Games were staged here; the third time Innsbruck has hosted Winter Olympics. The ski jump itself is 395 feet (120 meters) long and skiers can reach up to 60 mph (92 kmh) on take off.

A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999, the Graz Old Town is one of the best preserved districts in all of central Europe. In the heart of Graz, the Old Town features a mix of old and new, ranging from the medieval building facades surrounding the Hauptplaz (Main Square) to the modern architecture of the Kunsthaus Graz, which reflects the Old Town in its unique façade. The area includes more than a thousand buildings featuring a variety of architectural styles, including Gothic, Renaissance and Medieval. Visitors will enjoy getting lost among the narrow alleys and cobblestone streets lined with restaurants, cafes and one of a kind boutiques.  Any tour of the Old Town is sure to include highlights such as the Hauptplaz and Kunsthaus, as well as the Rathaus (Town Hall), the Landhaus and the hill overlooking the town known as the Schlossberg. The latter is the site of the ruined Dom, a Gothic cathedral that is home to the oldest painting of the city.

The Graz Schlossberg is a public park on a hill in the center of the city of Graz that has been home to fortifications as far back as the 10th century. A fortress stood on the hill from the middle of the 16th century to the 19th century, with only the clock tower and bell tower spared by an invading Napoleon. The remains of the castle became a public park in 1839 including the two towers, a cistern and a couple bastions from the destroyed castle.

A great walking tour of the Schlossberg starts at the bottom of the hill at Schlossbergplatz, from where visitors can take the 19th century Schlossbergbahn funicular or the newer Schlossberg lift to reach the top of the hill. Once at the top, check out the bell tower, climb to the top of the clock tower for scenic views of the Old Town and relax at one of the several cafes. If you’re lucky, you may even be able to catch a concert in what was once the cellar of one of the old bastions. Head back down to the Schlossbergplatz via one of several footpaths or staircases and then check out the extensive system of tunnels underneath the Schlossberg that was created during World War II.

Eggenberg Palace is one of the most important Baroque palaces in Austria and a must-see for visitors to Graz. Once home to the most powerful dynasty in the Austrian state of Styria, the palace dates back to at least the 15th century. Renovations in the 18th century added Rococo style ornamentation, as well as three East Asian cabinets, while the 19th century saw the formal Baroque garden transformed into a romantic English style garden. The palace features 365 exterior windows, representing the number of days in a year, with 24 windows on the second floor, representing the number of hours in a day. Inside, more than 600 paintings in the state rooms depict the history of the world with scenes from Roman and Greek mythology, the Old Testament and various European legends. Paintings in the Planetary Room depict the elements, planets and signs of the zodiac.

In addition to the state rooms, visitors can explore the Alte Galerie, a collection of European art from the medieval to early modern periods, the Coin Cabinet and the Archaeology Museum.

Building started in 1956 on Salzburg’s Large Festival Hall, which was designed by Austrian architect and stage designer Clemens Holzmeister specifically to host the annual Salzburg Festival. The grand green-and white theater is neo-baroque in style and the main auditorium can seat an audience of 2,170; it opened to great fanfare in 1960 with a performance of Richard Strauss’s Der Rosenkavalier conducted by Herbert von Karajan and is renowned for its acoustics; the circular stage has a width of 100 meters (328 feet) and is one of the largest in the world. The interior decor is a monument to 1960s design, with marble statues by sculptor Wander Bertoni, as well as installations by Anton von Webern and notorious Austrian artist Oskar Kokoschka. 

As well as hosting the Salzburg Festival, the venue has a full repertoire of year-round performances and also holds concerts during the city’s Easter and Whitsun Festivals as well as carol services at Christmas. It stands next door to another of Salzburg’s great musical venues, the Haus für Mozart (House for Mozart), which was completed in 1925 and was also designed by Clemens Holzmeister. 

Stretching east of Salzburg into the foothills of the Swiss Alps, the Austrian Lake District—the Salzkammergut—is home to some of Austria’s most stunning scenery. This is an idyllic spot for a summer vacation, with picturesque alpine villages, lush green valleys framed by snow-dusted peaks, and dozens of glittering lakes. 

Salzburg is the gateway to the Lake District, and day trips might include a tour of the Dachstein Ice caves, a boat cruise across Lake Wolfgang, or a visit to the town of St Gilgen, where Mozart's mother was born. Many visitors combine a scenic drive through the Lake District with a sightseeing tour of Salzburg’s UNESCO-listed Old Town or a visit to the Obersalzberg salt mines. 

Buses and trains link Salzburg with larger towns such as Mondsee, Bad Ischl, and St. Wolfgang, but the most convenient way to explore is with your own transport or on a guided tour. Boats and passenger ferries also link the towns and villages around the Attersee, Traunsee, Mondsee, Hallstätter See, and Wolfgangsee lakes, but most run only in summer. 

 

The most popular time to visit the Lake District is in summer; book tours and hotels in advance if you’re visiting during the busiest months of July and August. At this time of year, you can get your fill of outdoor activities like hiking, sailing, and water sports; in winter, meanwhile, you can hit the ski slopes on the surrounding mountains. 

The Austrian Lake District is perhaps most famous for its starring role in the musical “The Sound of Music” and visitors still come from all around the world to visit the film’s scenic locations. Sound of Music tours typically visit the magnificent Schloss Leopoldskron and Schloss Hellbrunn; the gazebo at Schloss Hellbrunn, where Liesl von Trapp sang “Sixteen Going on Seventeen”; the Mondsee church where Captain Von Trapp married Maria; and, of course, the green meadows where the iconic opening scene, starring Julie Andrews, was shot. 

One of the most notable landmarks in Graz and a must for any visitor, the Graz Clock Tower may be best known for its confusing clock faces, featuring long hands for the hours and short hands for the minutes. Dating back to medieval times, the tower stands 28 meters high and has a clock face on each side, each about five meters in diameter. The 18th century clockworks still operate, but are now electronic. In addition to the famous clock, the tower is also home to three bells, the oldest of which dates back to 1385 and still rings on the hour. Another bell from around 1450 was used during executions and later to remind people of the city curfew.

Once used to watch for fires in the surrounding area, the tower today offers visitors 360 degree views of Graz and its environs. Visitors should also look for the three painted coats of arms on the walls of the tower and the walled-in stone armchairs that were added in the 16th century.

Although still standing on the site of the original medieval castle, which was in place by 1463, today’s majestic Imperial Habsburg Palace has undergone several transformations over the centuries, reflecting Innsbruck’s own political fortunes. The first Gothic castle was extended by Emperor Maximilian I between 1495 and 1519, and was subsequently given a Renaissance makeover in the 1560s. With the transition of political power to Vienna after the Thirty Years War, Innsbruck and the Hofburg lost importance; it was not until the 1750s that Empress Maria Theresa revived the fortunes of this great palace and gave it a glorious Baroque and Rococo facelift.

The palace offers a series of 25 ornate Imperial Apartments open to the public, from the Guard Room and the Giant’s Hall, both smothered with great paintings depicting the history of the Habsburgs, to the Furniture Gallery with its elegant examples of Biedermeier styling. The series of beautifully furnished and decorated private apartments are Rococo confections in blues, pinks and greens, complete with gilded clocks, four-poster beds and richly upholstered sofas. They are laid out as they were when occupied by the Imperial Family during the 17th and 18th centuries.

A branch of the extraordinarily expensive Café Sacher is also found in the Hofburg; head there for coffee and Austria’s most acclaimed Sachertorte after viewing the Imperial Apartments.

Just an hour’s drive outside of Salzburg lies the alpine town of Berchtesgaden and the historic Eagle’s Nest (Kehlsteinhaus), Adolf Hitler’s mountaintop chalet and the former southern headquarters of the Nazi party. Perched atop Mt. Kehlstein, Eagle’s Nest offers a dark history and panoramic views of Germany’s Bavarian Alps. 

To reach the chalet, an opulent elevator decorated with brass, leather, and Venetian glass rises through solid rock to the summit. At the top, visitors can explore almost-untouched rooms, visit underground bunkers, and dine at the site’s cozy panoramic restaurant and beer garden. Take a day trip from Salzburg or Munich to relax and enjoy the scenery on your way to Eagle’s Nest, and learn about the site’s history from an expert tour guide. Visitors who want to get an overview of the region can opt for a combo tour to see Eagle’s Nest along with nearby highlights such as King’s Lake and the 450-year-old Salzburg Salt Mines. 

Berchtesgaden and the Eagle’s Nest are located on the Austria–Germany border, roughly one hour from Salzburg and two hours from Munich by road. Parking is available at the Hintereck parking area near Obersalzberg; from there, visitors can hike two hours to the summit or take a paid shuttle bus. 

Due to the region’s harsh winters, the Eagle’s Nest is only open from May through October. The site can be quite crowded in the summer, so make sure to book your tour in advance. 

The lodge was built in 1939 to celebrate Hitler’s 50th birthday, and was originally intended to serve as a retreat and meeting house for the Nazi Party. It was seldom used for its intended purpose, however, due to the outbreak of World War II. Today, visitors come from all over the world to learn about German history and enjoy summer weather at the on-site restaurant and beer garden (biergarten).

The 900-year-old Hohenwerfen Fortress squats 510 ft (155 m) up on a rocky hilltop, surrounded by swathes of pine trees and the harsh peaks of the Tennengebirge Mountains. From its lofty position the castle dominates the village of Werfen in the Salzach Valley region of the Austrian Alps. 

Accessed by either steep climb or funicular from the car parks, Hohenwerfen Fortress has its beginnings in the 11th century; it was built in tandem with the Hohensalzburg Fortress in Salzburg as a refuge for the ruling prince-bishops. Parts of the fortified medieval walls can still be seen but the castle’s history has been turbulent and it was razed to the ground during the Peasants’ Rebellion of 1525. 

Much of what you see today is the result of subsequent 16th-century restyling in Baroque style, when the castle was extended and heavily fortified to protect the prince-bishops from further attack. It was also used to house military prisoners before falling into disuse in the late 18th century; more refurbishment followed by then-owner Archduke Eugen of Austria before parts of the fortress was destroyed yet again by fire in 1931. 

Restored once more to its present pristine whitewashed majesty, Hohenwerfen featured as Schloss Adler in the 1968 WWII movie Where Eagles Dare.

Today an audio-guide leads visitors around the landscaped gardens and battlements, into the kitchens and Romanesque chapel, around the prince-bishops’ apartments, and up the bell tower for far-reaching Alpine views. There are also small museums detailing the history of the castle and displaying weapons used in its protection as well as Austria’s only falconry museum – the summer months see daily flight demonstrations with birds of prey. Tours of Hohenwerfen Fortress are often combined with a trip through the world’s largest ice caves at Eisriesenwelt near Werfen.

Innsbruck’s iconic Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) is found on Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse, the main square in Innsbruck’s charming Gothic and Baroque Altstadt (Old Town). The three-story, gold-topped balcony is tacked on the Neuhof (New Court), which was built by Archduke Friedrich IV in the early 15th century as a residence fit for kings. 

The Golden Roof was constructed in 1500 at the behest of Habsburg Emperor Maximilian I in celebration of his second dynastic marriage, this time to Bianca Maria Sforza of Milan. The roof glitters with 2,657 sparkling gilded copper tiles, apparently placed there to confound rumors that the Imperial Family was running out of money. 

Intricate carved wooden reliefs and frescoes painted on to the balcony show the emperor’s many coats of arms, and his likeness alongside that of both his wives. The structure also provided Maximilian I with an appropriately regal spot from which to observe tournaments and festivals in the square beneath. At Christmas, carolers appear on the balcony to serenade the crowds at the Yuletide Market in the square.

Inside the Neuhof, the six-room multimedia Maximilianeum showcases the life and times of Maximilian I, highlighting the political and economic power struggles endemic in Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries. 

Innsbruck’s innovative zoo lies along the sunny slopes of the Hungerburg plateau to the north of the city and is the only zoo in the world to feature animals indigenous to the Tyrol region – so if you’re after lions and tigers, this is not the place for you –along with amazing Alpine views. It opened in 1962, the brainchild of Professor Hans Psenner, who toiled for much of his adult life to establish a zoo dedicated purely to Alpine animal life. 

The Tyrolean region has incredible diversity and the zoo’s animal head count reaches 2,000 from 150 different Alpine species, from ibex to brown bears and birds of prey such as Golden eagles and owls. 

For anyone with a keen interest in conservation, the Alpenzoo has enjoyed great success in breeding rare and endangered Alpine animals. The last 10 years have seen much expansion, with the zoo now covering an area of 4.1 hectares (10.1 acres) over six levels; the birds are housed in vast aviaries, mammals in free-running enclosures, and fish in cold water aquariums. The zoo also offers a petting farm for kids; a brand new aviary housing bearded vultures, partridges, marmots and snow hares; and a newly enlarged enclosure for the otters.