Things to Do in Caen

Founded by Napoleon’s half-brother on the Normandy coast in 1861, the chic seaside town of Deauville (pronounced “Dovil”) has been a summer playground for the French elite, including Yves Saint Laurent, ever since the late 19th century. Full of designer boutiques and five-star hotels, manicured gardens and ritzy restaurants, Deauville is the place for Parisians to see and be seen in the summer. 

Known in France for its starring part in Proust’s “In Search of Lost Time,” Deauville is in the heart of the Parisian Riviera and boasts the Grand Casino, Deauville-La Touques racetrack and the American Film Festival in the first week of September every year. Unlike at Cannes’, public admission is available for many of the previews at Deauville. 

Very much a resort town, Deauville’s population of 4,100 heavily depends on tourism. Twinned with the town of Trouville right next door, visitors often hop over to Trouville by simply wandering over the pont des Belges bridge, which is just east of the train and bus stations in Deauville. 

The Abbaye aux Dames in Caen is also known as the Abbey of Sainte-Trinité, or the Holy Trinity Abbey. As one could guess, “Abbaye aux Dames” translates to Women's Abbey, and that's just what it was – a Benedictine convent. It's almost a thousand years old, and one of the must-see sites for any visitor to Caen.

If the facade of the abbey looks a little worse for wear, it's because of its history; it was the site of a battle during the Hundred Years War, during which it lost its original spires. The larger convent today is home to the Regional offices for Lower Normandy, but the abbey, restored in 1983, is open to visitors. William the Conqueror's wife Matilda is buried there, and its interior is a treasure trove of architectural details.

Famously painted by artists, such as Claude Monet, Gustave Courbet, and Eugene Boudin, the picturesque waterfront and colorful harbor of Honfleur are among the most memorable in Normandy. The historic port is renowned for its architecture, especially Vieux Bassin harbor’s 16th-century buildings and the wooden church of Sainte Catherine.

 

Strategically located at the mouth of the Seine River, facing the Port of Le Havre, Honfleur is a popular destination for cruise passengers, as well as day-trippers from Paris. On a day tour from Caen or Bayeux, a visit to Honfleur is often combined with Normandy towns, such as Pays d’Auge, Deauville, and Trouville. Alternatively, art fans can follow in the footsteps of Impressionists by pairing a visit to Honfleur with a tour of Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny.

 

Multi-day tours of Normandy from Paris also often include a stop at Honfleur, en route to D-Day beaches, the Loire Valley, or Mont-Saint-Michel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 

Honfleur is located northwest of Paris on the Normandy coast. There is no direct public transport from Paris, but trains run to nearby Le Havre, from where buses and taxis cross the Seine to Honfleur.

 

Honfleur is at its busiest in July and August, and hotels and restaurants along the main waterfront can book up quickly. The most atmospheric time to visit is on a Wednesday or Saturday morning, when a lively market runs along Cours des Fossés up to Place Sainte-Catherine.

 

When 19th-century landscape artist Boudin brought Monet to Honfleur, it started an art legacy lasting to this day. Honfleur’s stunning waterfront is said to have inspired Monet to begin painting landscapes. Soon, artists, such as Courbet, Alfred Sisley, Camille Pissarro, and Pierre-August Renoir, flocked to paint or sketch the pretty quays. Today, Honfleur still attracts artists and has a number of art galleries plus the Boudin Museum, where Boudin, Monet, and Courbet’s works are on display.

Arromanches-les-Bains, with a population of just under 600, is a village on the Normandy coast. But this tiny dot on the map has a huge legacy dating back to WWII, commemorated in the D-Day Museum on the site of the artificial Mulberry Harbor. It was here that hundreds of thousands of tons of equipment were brought to the shores of France by the Allies, and it served as one of the most important military bases of the time.

The museum itself is a must-visit for anyone honoring the heroes of WWII; from working models of vehicles to a panorama of what the its shores looked like at the time to remains of the war strewn about the harbor, it's an unforgettable look into just what an enormous undertaking D-Day was.

The Normandy town of Honfleur is home to St Catherine’s Church, the largest surviving wooden chapel in France. Built after the Hundred Years’ War by local 15th-century shipbuilders, the “Axe Masters” managed to create the impressive nave without using one saw. A century later, the chapel’s patronage had grown so much that it was decided St Catherine’s Church should be doubled in size. A second identical nave was built to match the first, giving the chapel an interesting “twin” architecture, so when you head inside the church look up at the ceiling—you’ll see it looks just like two upturned boats, which makes sense considering the naval background of its builders. 

Dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria, the church is partially covered in chestnut shingles, while the interior pillars are decorated in colorful flags from around the world. You’ll see light streaming in through the 19th-century stained glass windows, and look out for the church’s classical organ from the parish St Vincent of Rouen, too. 

Like many popular destinations in France – the Loire Valley and Provence to name just two - the Pays d'Auge is not a place with specific geographic or political borders within France. There's no mayor or governor of Pays d'Auge, and locals from the region of Normandy, where it's generally agreed to be located, will most likely have differing opinions as to exactly what's in and out of the Pays d'Auge.

That being said, here's a general idea: its northern border runs from just east of Caen to where the coast makes a dramatic turn towards Le Havre, and runs inland about halfway to Alençon. So, why is the  Pays d'Auge even a thing if no one can point to it on a map, exactly? It all has to do with AOC, or the appellation d'origine contrôlée. The Pays d'Auge appellation is given to specific agricultural products that come from the farms within its “borders” - cheeses, ciders, and calvados included. 

A visit to the Pays d'Auge yields not only a feast to fell any foodie, but lush green fields, half-timbered farm houses with thatched roofs, and a culture unlike any other in France. Visitors to the area for WWII memorials and museums should take the time to travel through the Pays d'Auge; it's a welcome contrast to the somber experiences of the coastline's history.

The Mémorial de Caen, a museum and war memorial, is one of the city’s most popular attractions and a must-see for anyone visiting Normandy to pay respects to the heroes of World War II. While the site specifically commemorates D-Day and the Battle for Caen, it is the overall sentiment that provides the perfect primer for those planning to see multiple memorials in the area.

The museum's exhibits take visitors through life in the 1940s during the war while specifically noting the D-Day landings and the Battle of Normandy before continuing with coverage through the fall of the Berlin Wall. The many personal accounts, artifacts and multimedia segments work to bring the war out of the past and into sharp focus. In addition, there are British, Canadian and American gardens on the grounds for strolling and picnicking.

Before June 6, 1944 the Bénouville Bridge was simply a way for locals to cross the Canal de Caen quickly and easily. But the Allied troops knew that the Germans also used this bridge to send supplies and reinforcements to their troops along the beaches of Normandy – and so it was a priority to seize control of it as soon as possible to help the D-Day operation.

And so on that day, the British 6th Airborne Division arrived silently in gliders and after only 10 minutes, had secured the bridge. From then on it was known as the Pegasus Bridge, in honor of the insignia on the brave soldiers' uniforms. 

Although the original bridge has been replaced thanks to modern engineering, there is still a memorial at the site, as well as a museum that focuses on the role of the Airborne Division in Operation Overlord. A fairly new museum, inaugurated only in 2000, its collection continues to grow and so is a wonderful experience even for repeat visitors.

The Abbaye de Saint Étienne (Saint Stephen's Abbey) in Caen is also known as the Abbaye aux Hommes (Men's Abbey), to distinguish it from the Women's Abbey close by. If it looks a bit like an English cathedral, you're on the right track – this stunning example of Norman Romanesque architecture indeed served as the inspiration for so many churches on the other side of the Channel. (Although keen-eyed visitors will notice the Gothic apse, a sign of the church's architectural evolution.)

There are two highlights of the Men's Abbey; the first is the tomb of William the Conqueror, whose mark on Normandy has never been forgotten. The second is a bit of a hidden gem – the cloistered gardens, accessible by going through the town hall. It's another world inside there, and a favorite with photographers.

The elegant seaside resort of Cherbourg sits by the English Channel (known as La Manche en français) on the Normandy coastline of France, a popular destination with families who visit for the miles of sandy beach as well as cross-Channel sailors who head for the marina at Port Chantereyne. The old town itself is a charming tangle of cobbled streets hiding stylish restaurants and bars as well as a smattering of museums, art galleries and smart shops.

Today Cherbourg’s ferry port connects with the English port towns of Portsmouth and Poole, but for centuries it was an important naval base, thanks to its deep natural harbour. During Napoleonic times in the early 19th century, grandiose sea walls and fortified defenses were constructed to protect the port from English attack. World War II saw most of these destroyed amid fierce fighting but after the end of the war in 1945, US troops rebuilt the harbor and it briefly became the busiest in the world. It can be explored by boat or the electric tourist train that chugs gamely around the town, and Cherbourg’s fascinating Museum of Liberation tells the story of its military history in Fort de Roule, which perches on a rocky crag high above the town. The Cité de la Mer complex is found in the former ocean-liner terminal and has exhibitions on immigration, an aquarium and a tour around a disused French nuclear submarine.

The chic seaside town of Trouville-sur-Mer is a popular getaway among Parisians seeking respite from the city. Twinned with the even ritzier town of Deauville next door, Trouville maintains its traditional roots as a glamorous beach resort and working fishing port, with Trouville fishermen still seeking out shrimp, mackerel, scallops and sole today. 

Less touristy than Deauville, Trouville has long been a hotspot for bohemians, and in the 19th century, writers like Flaubert and famous French artists including Mozin and Boudin came here to be inspired and enjoy the laid-back vibe. Trouville still has a flavor of the Belle Epoque about it, and a real authenticity can be felt in this maritime town, especially at the lively Fish Market (Marché aux Poissons). 

Along with Deauville, Trouville is the closest beach to Paris, making it a popular weekend destination. In summer, the town really heats up, especially on the boardwalk that stretches along its golden sands stuffed with colorful parasols and sunbathers. Connected to Deauville by the pont des Belges bridge, it’s also possible to get to Deauville via a footpath at the mouth of the river during low tide.