Things to Do in Fez

A mound of whitewashed buildings framed by lush mountains and olive groves, the hilltop town of Moulay Idriss is a striking proposition, and it’s a suitably picturesque setting for one of Morocco’s most important pilgrimage sites. The town takes its name from one of Morocco’s most revered saints, Moulay Idriss I, famous for bringing Islam to Morocco and founding the country’s first dynasty. Today, the grand Mausoleum of Idriss I is the focal point of pilgrim’s visits and plays an important role in celebrating the annual Festival of Moulay Idriss.

Although traditionally non-Muslims were unwelcome at the holy site, attitudes have relaxed considerably in recent years (although non-Muslims are not permitted access to the mausoleum) and Moulay Idriss has become a popular addition to tourist itineraries, often combined with a visit to near Meknès and Volubilis.

As Morocco’s second-largest mosque and the oldest Islamic building in Fez, it’s hardly surprising that the Kairaouine Mosque is one of the city’s most admired monuments. Founded in 857, the mosque adjoins the historic university of the same name, and is considered Morocco’s holiest mosque, making it an important spiritual center for Muslims.

Non-Muslims are not permitted to enter the mosque, which can hold up to 20,000 people at prayer, but it’s still worth a visit to admire its exquisite façade, with its striking green roof and ornate minaret.

Built in the 9th-century to house the tomb of Moroccan ruler and city founder Moulay Idriss II, the Zaouia de Moulay Idriss II was completely restored in the 14th century and now stands as the city’s holiest shrine. The shrine is an important place of pilgrimage for Moroccans, who believe that its blessings can bring good luck and fertility.

Non-Muslims are not permitted to enter the mausoleum, but it’s worth a look if only to admire the elaborate exteriors, including exquisite wooden arches, carved plasterwork and an ornately tiled mzara, where alms are passed through a brass slot. A peek through the door offers a glimpse of the richly decorated tomb, often surrounded by freshly lit candles and incense.

In the heart of the medina, close to the carpenters’ souk, Nejjarine Square is one of Fez’s most beautiful historic squares, best known for its distinctive centerpiece – the Nejjarine water fountain. Elaborately decorated with ornate carvings and zellij tilework, it’s the kind of drinking fountain normally seen fronting mosques or palaces.

Also taking prize place on Nejjarine Square is the exquisite Fondouk el-Nejjarine, an impressively preserved 18th-century funduq (historic traveler’s inn), now home to a fascinating carpentry museum. Inside, the interiors are decked out with magnificent wood-carved balconies and sculpted pillars, while the permanent exhibition houses a remarkable collection of wooden arts, crafts and carpentry tools, dating back as early as the 14th century.

Established in 1438, the Fez Mellah (Jewish Quarter) was the first of its kind in Morocco, a walled Jewish quarter that segregated the Jewish community from the predominant Muslim communities, and was locked during the evening hours to ensure the safety of its residents.

After WWII, the majority of Fez’s Jewish population left, with the quarter’s schools, synagogues and markets falling into disrepair, but a small, yet vibrant Jewish community still remains and the district is being slowly restored thanks to UNESCO funds. For visitors, a walk around the mellah offers a glimpse into one of Fez’s most unique neighborhoods, with contrasting architectural styles to the rest of the old medina.  Highlights include the newly restored Ibn Dahan synagogue, which dates back to the 17th-century, the Jewish Cemetery and the Gold souk, as well as a number of quality antique furniture stores.

Located at the entrance to Fez’s sprawling spice and perfume market, the exquisite Al-Attarine Madrasa (the ‘Madrasa of the Perfumers’) paints a striking picture against the ramshackle stalls and timeworn cobblestones of the surrounding souks.

Built by the Marinid Sultan Uthman II Abu Said in the early 14th century, the madrasa was once an important center for learning and spirituality. The show-stopping central courtyard is the main highlight of a visit - a sumptuous example of Islamic architecture, with ornate pillars, expertly carved stuccos and magnificent zellij fashioned from hand-cut glazed tiles. Visitors can also peek into the lavish prayer hall and the comparatively sparse student quarters that look out over the courtyard.

Formerly the main residence of the sultan, the Royal Palace (Dar el Makhzen) is still used by the King of Morocco when he is in the city of Fez. Surrounded by high walls, it spans an area of 195 acres (80 hectares). It is closed to visitors, who can only admire the imposing and ornate main entrance from the outside.

 

Located in the center of the Fes el Jadid quarter, the palace was originally built in the 13th century. Although visitors cannot go inside the palace, it is still worthwhile to see the exterior, and in particular the magnificent ornate gates at the entrance. There are seven brass doors of different sizes with matching knockers and intricate geometric patterns, surrounded by fine zellige (mosaic tilework) and carved cedar wood.

 

Make the most of your time in Fez and visit as part of a full-day tour, which includes stops at the Royal Palace as well as other top attractions such as the Medina, Borj Sud, and the famous tanneries of Fez. It’s also possible to visit as part of a multi-day tour from Tangier.

 

 

The Royal Palace is located at Place des Alaouites, in the center of the Fes el Jadid quarter. It’s easiest to visit as part of a tour. It’s also very close to the Jewish quarter, and many visitors will make a stop at both places.

 

The Royal Palace is a popular attraction and on most tour itineraries. Visit early in the morning to beat the crowds.

 

Located very close to the Royal Palace is the Jewish Quarter, or Mellah. Today, most of the Jewish population has left, but visitors can still see the distinctive architecture of the buildings, a gold souk, and charming antique shops. There’s also an ancient cemetery and a museum housed in a former synagogue.

The historic core of Fez and the seat of the Moroccan government until 1912, Fez Medina (Fez el-Bali) remains the city’s biggest draw – a sprawling district of jumbled souks and snaking alleyways, dotted with grand mosques, palace and madrassas. The old medina is now a protected UNESCO World Heritage site, still surrounded by its 13th-century city walls and reached via a series of monumental gates, most notably the 20th-century Bab Boujeloud, celebrated for its striking blue tilework.

With the medina largely pedestrianized, the best way to explore Fez Medina is on foot and there’s plenty to see, starting with the rambling souks, home to the famous Tanner’s Quarters, the soul of the city’s leather trade, where animal hides are soaked in gigantic pots of natural dye. Additional highlights of Fez el-Bali include the Kairaouine Mosque University, known as the world’s oldest university and dating back to 859; the exquisite Madrassa Bou Inania and Al-Attarine Madrasa; the Talaa Kebira water clock; and the Mellah Jewish Quarter.

One of Fez’s most notable museums, home to a vibrant collection of Moroccan arts and crafts, the Dar Batha Museum (Museum of Moroccan Arts) makes a worthwhile additional to any sightseeing trip, offering a unique insight into Fez’s artistic heritage.

The vast permanent collection includes everything from hand-painted ceramics to antique Berber carpets to gold-plated astrolabes, alongside traditional jewelry, leatherwork, earthenware, woodwork and embroidery, with artifacts dating from the 14th century to modern-day. The surroundings are equally impressive, with the museum housed in a beautiful Hispano-Moorish palace built by Moulay el Hassan in the 19th-century and featuring a tranquil garden and café.

Travelers seeking the typical Kasbah experience will find it at the 17th-century destination known as Amrdil. This well-preserved (and equally well restored) structure offers impressive views of nearby landscapes, including the Skoura palm groves, and showcases an ancient slice of life that’s difficult to find anywhere else.

Visitors can tour the grounds of the main sand-colored structure and visit the popular museum, where handmade tools, historic wells and traditional bread ovens. It’s possible to explore the grounds solo, but travelers will likely find local and informal guides eager to offer up their services at a reasonable price. 

Bab (meaning ‘gate’ in English) Boujloud was built by the French during their occupation of Morocco in 1913. It serves as the gateway into the heart of the bustling streets of the Fez medina. Right next to it stands the original 12th­-century gate, built with an indirect entrance on a slant to block battering rams from entering.

Bab Boujloud is Mauresque­-Andalusian in style. Its grand horseshoe arches are decorated with Fassi mosaic blue tiles on the outside and green ones within. From the main archway, two minarets are revealed in the distance: one is part of the crumbling 20th-­century Sidi Lazzaz mosque, while the smaller one, topped by two golden orbs, belongs to the recently restored 14th­-century Bou Inania Medersa.

Throughout the day, the area around Bab Boujloud bustles with local life, and as such this is one of the best spots in the city to observe everyday life in Morocco, with mules, and mopeds filling the streets as much as the locals. There are several cafes and restaurants on both sides of the gate, providing a relaxed setting from which to soak up the local atmosphere.