Things to Do in Flores

The third-largest archaeological site in Guatemala is not well known, overshadowed by the fame of neighboring Tikal. Archaeologists are only now sorting out the secrets of this city on the northern shore of Laguna Yaxhá, named “Blue-Green Water” for the lake’s unusual color. Founded around 800 BC atop a long, limestone ridge, the city was home to more than 40,000 people at its peak, around 250 AD.

Yaxhá’s sophisticated builders left behind more than 500 structures, including nine temple pyramids, two ball courts, forty unusually carved stelae, and numerous causeways. Climb to the top of Temple 216 for remarkable views over the lakes and rivers. While the city must have become quite isolated during the Mayan civilization’s (and Tikal’s) collapse between 800 and 900 AD, it continued to function well into the 1500s.

Today, Yaxhá is rarely visited, and therefore offers a peaceful and introspective experience of the Mayan world. Birders and wildlife watchers will especially appreciate the solitude, as well as the numerous crocodiles in the lake.

Uaxatún (wa-sha-TOON) is best known as the most accurate observatory in the Mayan world. The city was founded centuries before Tikal, and may well be the birthplace of the Mayan calendar and writing system; the oldest known arch in the Mayan world is also here. It was conquered by Tikal in 378AD, but probably become a learning center for elites from the capital, rather than a vassal state.

Today, its pyramids and plazas are interspersed with the tiny houses of a modern village (also called Uaxatún), once dedicated to the gathering of chicle. Tourism is now a small but growing business.

The city's original Mayan name, Siaan K'aan, or "Born in Heaven" reflects the city's astronomical obsession. Solstices are marked by temple pyramids, which form part of the oldest known Mayan calendar. While crowds come to see these impressive alignments, you may have the site to yourself other times of year.

Strategically located above the Pasión River, a once important trade route to the Gulf of Mexico, El Ceibal (also written "Seibal") is one of the best preserved of Peten's Mayan cities.

Archaeologists are in awe of elegant ceremonial construction dated to 900BC, among the earliest known monumental architecture in the Mayan world. Most visitors, however, will remember El Ceibal for its remarkably detailed stelae and sculptures, many carved after 800 AD, when the rest of the Mayan Empire was already in a state of collapse. Rendered in unusually hard stone, these detailed portraits and glyphs were influenced by foreign civilizations, and are unusually beautiful. This is why El Ceibal is sometimes called the "Mayan Art Gallery."

The city was built on several elevated terraces overlooking the river, and is relatively small, covering about one square kilometer (2.5 acres). Plan to spend two or three hours exploring.

Guatemala’s second largest lake, a sparkling expanse at the heart of the hot, humid Petén Basin, was one of the earliest cradles of Mesoamerican civilization. The lush rainforests at its fringe are home to at least 27 archaeological sites, in addition to Flores, capital of Petén Department. Once known as Nojpetén (City Island) by the Itza Mayans, Flores was also their regional capital, and was the last Mayan city to fall to the Spanish, in 1697.

You’re probably staying on the island, a great base for enjoying the lake. Head to the north shore for a walk on the malecón, or jump in for a swim with the locals. The west side boasts lakefront restaurants and bars where you can watch the sunset. Hire a cayuco (small, motorized boats) to other attractions overlooking the water, including ruins, Petencito Zoo, Cerro Cahuí Nature Reserve, “El Museo,” a small archaeological museum, and other towns along the lakeshore.

So, you want to explore Guatemala’s subtropical rainforest, but without getting too wild? Ixpanpajul Nature Park offers a several lush and well-maintained ways into the jungle, perfect for a family outing.

The pretty little park preserves 450 hectares (1.7 square miles) of almost untouched rainforest, into which they’ve packed all sorts of activities. The most popular trek is a self-guided hike (a little over an hour) that takes you to several spectacular viewpoints. There are also suspended bridges through the forest canopy, horseback rides, night safaris, birding treks, ATV rentals, and even a Tarzán Zip Line Canopy Tour, if you’re feeling particularly brave.

Though this tiny corner of the jungle has been partially developed, it’s still wild: More than 200 species of trees, 150 birds, and 40 mammals, including three types of monkey, all call the park home. It’s a great half-day trip, but keep in mind that wildlife is most active in the morning and evening.

The vast tropical basin that covers Petén, the northern third of Guatemala, remains largely wild, its jungle-carpeted Mayan cities and traditional indigenous villages left largely unmolested within the protected 2.1 million-hectare (almost 8000 square-mile) Maya Biosphere Reserve, created by UNESCO in 1990.

Home to only 3% of Guatemala’s population, it has become an adventurous ecotourism destination. The reserve comprises Tikal National Park, El Zotz and Naachtún-Dos Lagunas Biotopes (Uaxatún), Yaxhá-Nakum-Naranjo National Park, and Mirador Basin National Monument, along with at least 200 other Mayan ruins, mountains, rivers, cenotes, hiking trails, and 14 lakes, including Lake Petén Itza, gateway to the reserve.

The reserve is part of a protected area stretching from central Mexico, through northern Guatemala and Belize. The Mayan city-studded forests are home to thousands of rare and beautiful species, including jaguar, puma, ocelot, margay, spider monkeys, tapirs, deer, scarlet macaws, and much more. There are dozen of ways to explore the wilderness, most of which are easily arranged from Flores.