Things to Do in Jalisco

Across from the Guadalajara Cathedral, the Teatro Degollado looms in stony, neoclassical glory. Corinthian columns form a massive portico topped with a marble relief of Apollo and the nine muses. The length of the building’s rear wall is adorned with a stylish sculptural depiction of Guadalajara’s history; a fountain runs along the base.

The inside is even more over-the- top, with five tiers of gilded balconies and a ceiling frescoed with scenes from Dante’s Divine Comedy. A red-and-gold color scheme is augmented with frippery, including a fearsome golden eagle above the stage. The eagle holds a chain in its beak: as legend has it, the theater will stand until the day the golden eagle drops its chain.

The theater was completed in 1866, at the height of Mexico’s great theatrical renaissance. Today the lavishly appointed building is home to classically Guadalajaran institutions, including International Mariachi competitions, the Philharmonic Orchestra of Jalisco, the Ballet Folklorico of the University of Guadalajara, and the Guadalajara City Ballet, as well as traveling performances and limited run shows.

Spiked with spindly spires and decorated with fine stonework, the Templo Expiatorio is one of Guadalajara’s iconic churches and a striking example of neogothic style. The first stone was laid in 1897 and construction was completed in the 1930s. Inside, the ambiance is dreamy. Graceful multilayered arches frame an altar backlit by massive stained glass windows and crowned with a giant yet simple gold chandelier. Beams of colored light cast by the stained glass cut through smoke and dust motes, and the air smells of incense, candles, and flowers.

Just south of the cathedral and facing the pretty Plaza de Armas, you’ll find the imposing governor’s palace. The two-story building is massive, baroque, and beset with snarling gargoyles, but the façade is far less interesting than the building’s illustrious history and unique interior.

The palace was completed in 1790. Father Miguel Hidalgo occupied the building in 1810, during the Mexican War of Independence. A radical priest with a taste for wine and women, Hidalgo crusaded for human rights; it was here in the governor’s palace that he issued his famous proclamation to abolish slavery. Later, during one of Mexico’s numerous small civil wars, Benito Juarez, “Mexico’s Abraham Lincoln,” also occupied the building. When opposing forces entered the city, Juarez was captured outside the palace and very nearly executed. The guns of a firing squad were lined upon him when the novelist Guillermo Prieto jumped forth to shield Juarez. Supposedly he cried “los valientes no asesinan,” (the brave don’t murder) and the soldiers lowered their rifles.

The interior of the Palacio de Gobierno reflects the building’s storied past. The principal stairwell is emblazoned with a dramatic image of Father Miguel Hidalgo, backlit by the fires of revolution. The mural wraps up the stairs, depicting the history and imagined future of Mexico. The paintings are the work of one of the world’s preeminent muralists, Jose Clemente Orozco, and offer a good crash course in Mexican history. A smaller upstairs mural depicts Hidalgo signing the decree to abolish slavery—this mural was Orozco’s last work.

Puerto Vallarta’s Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe was built over the course of several decades in the first half of the 20th century. Built in rustic pink stone, to a neo-baroque design, one of the prettiest details is the crown that tops the church bell tower.

The liveliest time to visit the church is December 1 to 12, when crowds celebrate the Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe with street processions, festive food and mariachi music. The festival coincides with the anniversary of the founding of Puerto Vallarta, so locals have even more reason to celebrate.

The heart of every Mexican city is its cathedral, and Guadalajara is no exception. Officially known as the Basílica de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora de la Santísima Virgen María, the Guadalajara Cathedral towers over the city’s central plazas. A mishmash of Gothic, baroque, Moorish, and neoclassical styles, the building is atypical for a Mexican cathedral, and its unusual design has made it an emblem of the city.

Since 1561, the massive cathedral has weathered eight earthquakes, two of which did serious damage. An 1818 quake demolished the central dome and towers. The distinctive tiled towers you see today date back to1854. The interior is awesome in the original sense of the word; the stained glass windows are reminiscent of Notre Dame, and 11 silver and gold altars were gifts from Spain’s King Fernando VII. But it’s not all just finery --- the cathedral also has its share of macabre relics. Under the great altar you’ll find the crypts of bishops and cardinals, which date back to the sixteenth century. And to the left of the main altar you’ll see the Virgin of Innocence, which contains the bones of a 12-year-old girl who was martyred in the third century, forgotten, and rediscovered in the Vatican catacombs 1400 years later. The bones were shipped to Guadalajara in 1788.

Located near Puerto Vallarta on Mexico’s Pacific coast, Banderas Bay (Bahía de Banderas) is famous for its 42-mile (68-kilometer) stretch of picturesque coast. Jungle, sandy beaches, and rich aquatic life define this area, which is ideal for watersports and land adventures alike.  

The Basics

Most tours exploring Banderas Bay’s terrestrial and aquatic offerings leave from Puerto Vallarta. Explore the bay’s waters on a snorkeling excursion, some of which also include kayaking and a visit to Marietas Islands National Park. If you’re a certified diver, you can opt for a scuba diving tour to explore undersea tunnels, hidden caves, and reefs brimming with tropical fish. Sailing tours are another option for experiencing the picturesque bay. On land, you can pedal along the coastline on a biking tour, delve into local culture on a taco-tasting tour, or explore the jungle on a day trip to nearby Las Caletas. 

Things to Know Before You Go

• Banderas Bay is a must-see for nature and beach lovers. 
  
• Remember to bring sun protection and plenty of water for outdoor excursions.
  
• Proof of PADI certification is required for certified dives.
  
• Be careful not to touch or disturb aquatic or terrestrial wildlife.
  

When to Get There

April through June is the best time to visit Banderas Bay, when rain is scarce and there are fewer tourists. January through March is the best time for whale watching, although the area tends to be crowded during this time. 

How to Get There

Part of the Pacific Ocean, Banderas Bay borders Puerto Vallarta and stretches between Punta Mita in the north and Cape Corrientes in the south. Puerto Vallarta is the main jumping-off point for tours and activities in the area. The closest international airport is Licenciado Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International Airport, located roughly three miles (five kilometers) from downtown Puerto Vallarta. 

Whale Watching in Banderas Bay

Among the most popular outdoor activities in Banderas Bay, whale watching tours provide an opportunity to see humpback whales, which travel to the bay in early December for mating and calving. Most of these excursions leave from Marina Vallarta in Puerto Vallarta.

Ringed with charming towns and villages, Lake Chapala has drawn a steady stream of foreign visitors since the sixteenth century, when the conquistador Nuño de Guzman arrived on the lake’s muddy shores. In the early twentieth century, the luxury obsessed dictator Porfirio Diaz popularized the area as a vacation spot for Mexico’s middle and upper classes, and lakeside towns like Ajijic abound with storied hotels, hot springs, beer gardens, and bars.

Located roughly 50 km south of Guadalajara, Chapala is Mexico’s largest lake: 35 km wide and 120 km long. Chapala is not a swimmer’s paradise: water levels have sunk steadily over the years and the lake is murky and choked with pretty but invasive water hyacinth. Most visitors prefer to explore the lake by boats, which can be chartered at the pier in the town of Chapala. The ruined fortress of Mezcala Island, also known as Presidio, is a must-see.

The three main lake towns, Chapala, Ajijic, and Jocotepec, are all worth a visit. Chapala is a famous writers’ retreat; celebrated visitors include Tennessee Williams and D.H. Lawrence, who immortalized Chapala’s Church of San Francisco in the final pages of his novel, The Plumed Serpent. Ajijic is a haven for retirees and artists; the stone streets are lined with galleries and cafes, and it’s an easy place to get by if your Spanish is limited. Jocotepec is the least touristy of the three towns and features a pretty waterfront park and an old-fashioned plaza, where visitors can dine on authentic regional specialties such as birria, spicy goat or beef stew.

The private beach resort of Las Caletas is a day-trip destination like no other for spoiling the senses.

The former home of maverick movie director John Huston, this tropical beach haven is surrounded by protected rainforest and palms.

There’s everything you could possibly need for a relaxed, luxurious day at the beach. Chill-out in a hammock, de-stress with a soothing massage, take a guided diving or kayaking tour, snorkel with sea lions, learn to cook paella or stroll through the bird-filled orchid gardens.

Las Caletas can also be visited at night for a magical dinner under the stars and Mexican dance show.