Things to Do in Kathmandu

High in the Himalayas, where thin air pervades and rivers run white, is the Dudh Kosi River, a main tributary of the Kosi River system in Nepal. The waterway originates east of the Gokyo Lakes on the southern slopes of Mount Everest before winding down the mountainside, passing scatterings of rural towns on its journey to join the powerful Kosi River near Harkapur.

At first glance, the Bagmati River might appear to be just an ordinary river, meandering its way through the Kathmandu Valley in Nepal. However, the Bagmati holds a great deal of religious significance to Hindus and Buddhists in the country, making it a destination for Nepali and visitors alike.

From the temples lining its banks to the funereal ceremonies that take place in its waters, the Bagmati has been mentioned as a holy place for more than 2000 years and is considered the source of Nepalese civilization; Kathamandu has grown up along its banks. The river is lined with ghats, stone-paved embankments and stairs that lead down to the waters. These areas, often dotted with statues, are used for the open-air cremations that take place on the Bagmati as well as ritual bathing, though the bathing is becoming a less common practice due to the pollution and receding of the river.

Several temples can be found near the river, including the Gokarneswor Temple at Gokarna and the Hindu Temple of Pashupatinath, dedicated to Shiva, which is located north of Kathmandu on an area above the Bagmati. Non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple, but they can go to view the river and the cremation rituals that are followed on the banks of the river.

Perhaps what draws most visitors to this area is the chance to see one of the many cremations that take place. Rather than a private affair, like most Western cremations, Hindu creations are public ceremonies. With the oldest son acting as chief mourner, the deceased is dipped into the Bagmati three times for purification before the pyre is lit; members of the family often enter the river or sprinkle themselves with water for spiritual purification.

Today, the Bagmati is suffering from pollution due to the large numbers of inhabitants in Kathmandu. As the garbage and raw sewage build up, there are efforts being made to clean up the holy river, but it’s a slow process. As there is little to no oversight from government to prevent companies from dumping in the river, the waste from large entities and individuals continues to multiply. There are efforts being made to clean up the Bagmati, but it’s going to take collaboration and cooperation to restore this heritage site.

Changu Narayan Temple, located within easy reach of the town of Bhaktapur in the Kathmandu Valley, has a history as a sacred site dating all the way back to the third century AD, though the double roofed temple that stands in honor of the god Vishnu today was erected after a fire in 1702. Some of the statuary contained within the temple date back to the fourth through ninth centuries.

The ancient temple honors Vishnu as Narayana, or the First Being. The wooden roof supports that are visible on the temple’s exterior depict several other deities from the Tantric school, and the stone sculptures surrounding the building depict various other avatars of Vishnu as well as of local kings and queens. The traditional Nepali-style architecture includes intricately gilded windows and four gates, each guarded by a pair of stone animals.

The temple doesn’t draw many visitors, making it a peaceful escape from Kathmandu. Only Hindus are allowed inside the main temple when it's open, but there are plenty of sights to enjoy in the courtyards surrounding the main structure. The path to and from the parking lot is lined with shops selling locally crafted masks and Tibetan thangka paintings.

If you're looking for a green escape in crowded Kathmandu, you could certainly do worse than the Garden of Dreams. This neoclassical garden was created in 1920 by Field Marshal Kaiser Sumsher Rana and styled after Edwardian gardens of the time. With the help of a prominent local architect, Kaiser Sumsher designed and built six pavilions within the garden, one to represent each of the six seasons in Nepal.

This once private garden has been beautifully restored and is now open to the public; and while it’s only half the size of the original, you can still meander past the fountains, statues, pergolas and birdhouses scattered throughout the grounds.

If the crowds, traffic and pollution of Kathmandu are wearing on you, take an afternoon to relax in the gardens. Bring a book along, or just find a spot to sit and people watch. There’s a restaurant and teahouse on the grounds with WiFi available throughout the gardens for an hourly fee.

If you were to go back in time and walk down Freak Street (Jhhonchen Tole or Jochen Tole) in the early 1970s, you’d find yourself surrounded by cheap hostels, New Age enlightenment shops, cafes and hordes of the hippies who gave the stretch of road its nickname. While the flower children have moved on since Freak Street’s heyday, the area remains a popular alternative to Thamel for dining and accommodation.

If you find yourself near Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, take the short walk to Freak Street for lunch or dinner at one of the quiet cafes, including a Ganesh restaurant or the tiny cake shop named Snowman. Everything from dining and hotels, to shops selling knick-knacks and bohemian attire tend to be cheaper here than in the more popular Thamel, making it worth a stop even if you’re not staying here.