Things to Do in Kolkata

College Street, located in central Kolkata (Calcutta) in the University area, is the heart of intellectualism in a city that prides itself on its esteemed academic traditions. Thousands of secondhand bookstalls line the street to either side where you can find nearly any book ever sold in the city, including rare titles at bargain basement prices. Haggling is expected.

Of all the centers of learning located in the College Street vicinity, the Presidency College is the most respected. Established in 1817, it’s one of the oldest and most prestigious academic institutions in India and the place where filmmaker Satyajit Ray attended university. Directly across the street is the nationally famous Indian Coffee House, where students and Bengali intellectuals cram each night for heated debates over a cup of coffee.

Unfortunately, the tiny stalls with piles of old tomes are giving way to modern book malls filled with new or nearly new publications, making it more difficult to hunt down rare volumes. Now is the time to visit this quickly changing neighborhood while it still retains some of its old charm.

Rabindranath Tagore, India’s most celebrated poet and the first non-European to win the Nobel Prize in literature, was born and raised in a yellow mansion in the north of Kolkata (Calcutta) in 1861. His family mansion, built in 1784, now serves as a memorial of his life and work. The university surrounding the Tagore House is now the epicenter for classical Indian fine arts.

The Tagore House, now part of the Rabindra Bharati University Campus, is filled with photographs of the poet, including one with Albert Einstein, as well as paintings by his family members and memorabilia from his life. Quotations from some of Tagore’s most inspiring works adorn the walls. While the maintenance on the home leaves something to be desired, it’s still well worth a visit to gain a better understanding of one of India’s most influential cultural figures.

Be prepared to remove your shoes before entering the home, and keep your cameras tucked away; photography isn’t allowed.

Often described as the lungs of Kolkata (Calcutta), the Maidan (Esplanade) is the city’s largest urban green space and home to numerous cricket and soccer fields, playgrounds, the flowery Eden Gardens and several memorials and monuments. The park is as important to Kolkata as Central Park is to New York City, and residents head to the Maidan for entertainment and leisure on the weekends.

After Fort William was constructed in 1758, the jungle that used to occupy the Maidan was cleared out to give the fort’s cannons a clear line of fire. Besides being used as a parade ground for the British military stationed at Fort William, the park has also played an important role in the establishment of several team sports in the city. The biggest three soccer teams in Kolkata maintain a presence at the Maidan, and the now popular sport of cricket was introduced to India with a two-day match in the park in 1804.

While park maintenance leaves something to be desired, a morning visit makes for some of the best people watching around, giving visitors a peek into the day-to-day lives of Bengali residents. Set aside a few hours to wander the park grounds, watch some cricket and stroll through the Eden Gardens. When you’ve thoroughly explored the park, pay a visit to the nearby St Paul’s Cathedral to gaze at its stained-glass window and Italian-style frescos.

Kali Temple (Kalighat), built in 1809, is Kolkata’s (Calcutta) holiest Hindu site and a major pilgrimage site for Hindu devotees from around the country; with over 20,000 people visiting each day. The name of the city is said to have been derived from the temple’s name.

Kali Temple, a complex devoted to Kali, the patron goddess of Kolkata, is steeped in history and legend as violent and grisly as the goddess herself. According to myth, as the Lord Shiva was performing a dance of destruction with the corpse of Kali on his shoulders, her body was sliced into several pieces and scattered across the land. The Kali Temple is said to have been built where a toe of her right foot landed.

Human sacrifices were supposedly performed in Kali’s name on the grounds of the temple during the nineteenth century, and if you visit today, vestiges of this ancient practice remain in a daily goat sacrifice in the enclosure just to the south of the temple. Non-Hindus may not enter the inner sanctum of the temple, but you can still explore the surrounding courtyards and flower markets.

More than 2 million people cross the Hooghly River by way of the Howrah Bridge each day, earning it the title of the busiest cantilever bridge in the world. The 2,313 foot (705 meter) expanse of steel girders hanging over the water connect the sister cities of Howrah and Kolkata (Calcutta) with eight lanes of chaotic auto rickshaws, scooters, bikes, cars, animals and pedestrian traffic.

A bridge linking the cities was originally proposed in 1862, but plans for the bridge didn’t come to fruition until 1943. Since its erection, the Howrah Bridge has become a cultural icon in Kolkata and West Bengal and has served as a setting and inspiration for the 1958 film Howrah Bridge by director Shakti Samanta.

Visit the bridge in the early morning to see early rising denizens washing along the ghats at the base of the bridge. Under the eastern side of the bridge, you’ll find the colorful and chaotic Mullik Ghat Flower Market, a great place to people watch while sipping on tea.

The Nakhoda Mosque, the largest Mosque in Kolkata (Calcutta), was styled after the mausoleum of Emperor Akbar in Agra. The behemoth red sandstone structure, built in 1926, can accommodate 10,000 worshippers in its main prayer hall. The mosque’s green rooftop includes three domes and two large minarets with an additional 25 smaller minarets.

The mosque itself is closed to non-Muslims during prayer times, but the main draw of the mosque is the market surrounding it. The tightly packed stalls of the bazaar sell everything from prayer mats and Korans to the best kebabs and biryani, a spiced rice dish, to be found in the city.

If you plan to visit the mosque between prayer times, be sure to wear conservative clothing, including long pants and covered shoulders, or you likely won’t be allowed in. The mosque is located in one of the most congested areas of the city, so leave plenty of time to get there and out again.

The Marble Palace, one of Kolkata’s (Calcutta) odder landmarks, was constructed in 1835 by a wealthy merchant and art enthusiast by the name of Raja Rajendra Mullick. Made from more than 90 varieties of marble, the palatial mansion draws inspiration from nearly every cultural influence imaginable.

The Romanesque structure houses a collection of Buddhist, Catholic and Hindu religious relics as well as Ming Dynasty vases, Egyptian statues and works of art from more than 90 different countries, all lit by Venetian chandeliers. Authentic Rubens and Renoir pieces are said to adorn the walls. The neighboring Marble Palace Zoo is more of an aviary with several varieties of impressively feathered species with a few monkeys and deer as well.

The Marble Palace remains privately owned by Mullick’s relatives, and while admission is free, you’ll need to secure a permit at least 24 hours in advance. Be prepared to pay what you saved in admission on tips for everyone from the staff tour guides to the bathroom attendants.

Jain temples are known for being some of the most highly decorated of any in India, and the Pareshnath Jain Temple in Kolkata (Calcutta) is one of the most resplendent. Built by art enthusiast Ray Badridas Bahadur in 1867, the temple interior is filled with intricately patterned marble, mirrors, stained glass, European chandeliers and gilded surfaces.

The pastel candy-colored buildings are subdivided into four smaller temples, set within a garden dotted with silvered statuary, fountains and mosaics. The main temple is dedicated to Sitalnathji, one of the 24 sages believed to have achieved Nirvana (tirthankaras) in the Jain religion, and houses an eternal flame in his honor.

The temple opens to non-Jains daily in the morning and afternoon with no admission charge. Give yourself an hour or two to stroll around the grounds and appreciate the detail while learning about a religion of which little is known in the Western world.

In 1950 Mother Teresa founded the Missionaries of Charity (MOC) in the city of Kolkata (Calcutta) to lend aid to the poor, disabled and infirm. What started out as a small community of 12 Sisters has grown to include more than 4,500 volunteer Sisters working worldwide.

Mother House, the headquarters of the MOC, was Mother Teresa’s home for 44 years during her time in Kolkata, and visitors come here to pay respects at her tomb. The room where she slept has been preserved, and you can look in on the simple camp bed where she slept. A photo above the bed shows her meeting with Pope John Paul II in 1986, 11 years before her death in 1997. The neighboring museum houses her threadbare sandals and chipped ceramic bowl.

Since Mother House is still a working missionary center, visiting hours are strictly adhered to, so double check the latest times before you head over. If you want to dig deeper and really get a sense for the work being done, consider volunteering for a day or two during your visit to Kolkata.

The Victoria Memorial in Kolkata (Calcutta) is both a symbol of the city and the entire British Raj. The giant, white marble tribute to Queen Victoria was erected over a 20-year period, starting in 1901, as a way for Lord George Curzon, the viceroy of India, to honor the queen following her death.

The architectural marriage between the symmetry and domes that are characteristic of the Italian Renaissance and the minarets and detailing of the Indo-Saracenic movement makes the building appear as a cross between the Capitol and the Taj Mahal. Inside you’ll find a museum which provides visitors a walk through the history of Kolkata and the complex relationship between Britain and India in West Bengal. The 25 galleries display more than 3,500 Raj-related artifacts: Queen Victoria’s desk and piano are among these pieces.

The reasonably well-kept gardens surrounding the monument make for pleasant picnicking, especially on cooler days. Come after dark for a short light and music show in English.