Things to Do in Kuching

Completed in 1879, the three-tiered, off-white tower that is Fort Margherita was commissioned by the most important man in all of Kuching: Charles Brooke, the second Rajah of Sarawak. Named after his wife, Ranne Margaret Alice Lili de Windt, the fortress was meant to guard the rapidly growing town of Kuching from an attack by fearsome river pirates. For an entire century, three generations of Brooke family members formed the “Brooke Dynasty” of Sarawak, native Englishmen who privately ruled as “White Rajahs” over what was once a vassal state of Brunei. During their 100-year rule the White Rajahs constructed many buildings in an architectural style akin to that of 19th century England, Fort Margherita being no exception.

Though the fort saw no major military action, executions of prisoners were carried out in the fortress courtyard up until the Japanese occupation of Sarawak during World War II. At one point a police museum occupied a portion of the fortress grounds, although it has been a number of years since the artifacts and displays were removed.

Though there isn’t much action that still takes place at Fort Margherita, it nonetheless is an important part of Kuching history and a monument to the heritage of Brooke Dynasty rule. To reach Fort Margherita visitors must pay a nominal fee to cross the Sarawak River by sampan boat and then continue down an unmarked footpath before reaching the fortress grounds. Though the fortress has recently fallen into disrepair, it’s still worth the journey simply to climb the spiral staircase of the watchtower for a panoramic view of one of the more curious territories in the history of modern Malaysia.

One of the finest museums on the island of Borneo, the Sarawak Museum is also the oldest, opened in 1891 by Charles Burke, the second Rajah of Sarawak. Set inside a massive, rectangular, Victorian-period edifice designed to resemble a Normandy townhouse, the inside still has the feel of a museum constructed in the late 20th century as punctuated by the wood and bamboo flooring.

The need for interior renovations aside, however, the Sarawak Museum is home to a fascinating array of ethnographic and ecological artifacts relating to traditional tribal and environmental life in the state of Sarawak. In addition to small scale replicas of Iban longhouses, original tribal weapons, and mounted exhibits of exotic mammals and reptiles, of particular interest to many visitors are the displays of shrunken heads and human skulls which adorn various parts of the museum interior. Also on permanent display is a reconstruction of the prehistoric human settlement at Niah Caves, believed to be the oldest human settlement on the island of Borneo.

Across the street from the old museum is the Tun Abdul Razak Exhibition Hall, so named after Malaysia’s second prime minister and open to the public since 1983. Here visitors can peruse colorful, prehistoric pottery and gawk at a traditional Iban war boat, an ornately carved craft capable of transporting up to 25 people. Also on the grounds of the Exhibition Hall are replicas of mysterious rock carvings and structures found in a nearby mangrove swamp which, until their discovery, had only been encountered in the Kelabit Highlands deep in the Bornean interior.

The Sarawak Cultural Village portrays the varied cultures and customs of Sarawak’s ethnic groups. The village consists of authentic traditional buildings each displaying artifacts made by individual dwellers. Demonstration of arts and crafts like beadworks, wood and bamboo carvings, pua and straw weaving can be seen while visiting the Village.

The buildings – a Chinese farmhouse, a Penan Hut, a Melanau Tall House and Bidayuh, Iban and Orang Ulu Longhouses - are set amidst a scenic 17-acre (6.8hc) site. As part of the living museum, members of Sarawak's many ethnic groups can be seen throughout the Village going about everyday activities such as carving, sago-making, crushing sugar-cane, and growing pepper.

You can learn how to throw a Malay spinning top, shoot a Penan blowpipe or pick out a tune on an Orang Ulu sape. It’s a touristy set up but does give you a deeper understanding of the culture and heritage of Sarawak’s many racial groups that is not available elsewhere.

Built in 1870 by Charles Brooke, Second White Rajah of Sarawak, the Astana is now the official residence of the Governor of Sarawak. Built as a bridal gift from Charles Brooke to his wife, Ranee Margaret of Sarawak, the Astana is now often viewed as an architectural monument of love. It is a regal complex comprised of three separate bungalows and a narrow system of passageways that unifies all parts of the Astana into a single palatial dwelling.

Set on the northern bank of the Sarawak River no visitors are allowed to enter the interior of the Astana, the one exception being the annual Hari Raya festival at the end of the month of Ramadan. During all other times of the year, however, visitors to Kuching are encouraged to wander the well-manicured palace grounds and peruse the various ethnic artifacts which lay scattered amongst the property. It’s a popular hangout for locals and a serene spot to enjoy a sunset while gazing back at the Kuching waterfront.

During the time of Rajah Charles Brooke, it was understood that he planted a grove of betel nut trees behind the Astana in order to offer them to visiting Dayak chiefs, and although not entirely open to the public, the Astana is nonetheless one of the more important architectural and historical monuments pertaining to the curious history of Kuching.

Satang Turtle Island National Park consists of two islands Pulau Satang Besar and Pulau Satang Kecil just off Sarawak’s west coast. These protected islands, surrounded by the pristine waters of the South China sea, are a recognized sanctuary for Green and rare Hawksbill turtles who return to the islands each year to lay their eggs.

You can visit the turtle conservation and hatchery area and learn about the conservation program on the island. Park rangers collect the turtle eggs, count them and replace them in a beach hatchery. When the hatchlings emerge from their eggs after 40 to 60 days, their numbers are recorded before they are released into the sea.

The surrounding ocean contains an abundance of coral and marine life and it is possible to swim and snorkel here and to take a guided stroll through the National Park’s jungle-filled interior.

Bako National Park is Sarawak’s oldest national park and, at 2,728 hectares (6,738 acres), is also one of its smallest. It packs a lot in for its size, however, containing almost every type of vegetation found in Borneo.

Sitting on a promontory at the mouths of the Sarawak and Bako rivers, Bako National Park contains no less than seven eco-systems – from cliff and coastal vegetation to mangrove, peat swamp and dipterocarp forest and grasslands.

But it is the wildlife most people come for  - the rare proboscis monkey, macaques, monitor lizards and bearded pigs – that, and the amazing number of pitcher and canivorous plants that call the National Park home.

A curious activity for a rainy day: if you have ever owned a cat or have been interested in the historical role cats have played in music, theater, advertising, mythology and ancient societies around the globe, then the Kuching Cat Museum might be of interest to you.

Located in the modern looking North City Hall building only ten minutes outside of the city center, you won't find a museum quite like the Kuching Cat Museum anywhere else in the world, an appropriate reality seeing as "kucing" is actually the Malay word for cat. With over 2,000 exhibits on display, artifacts range from a mummified cat from Egypt that is believed to be over 5,000 years old, to the world's only mounted specimen of the Bay Cat, a highly endangered wild cat that is endemic to the island of Borneo.

A separate exhibit is devoted to the five wild cats of Sarawak and Borneo, whereas other corners of the 1,035 square meter facility discuss various types of global cat food, the Broadway musical "Cats", and of course, a section devoted to "Hello Kitty" dolls.

Though entrance to the museum is free, all visitors still must pass through a doorway that, as you might have guessed, is through the mouth of an oversized cat. The Cat Museum is a hilarious place to visit for some, and completely lost on others.