Things to Do in Provence

Nestled in the hills above Aix-en-Provence, the Atlelier Cézanne, or the Cézanne Studio, is a museum devoted to the life and works of its namesake. The studio, the upper floor of a Provençal country house, was commissioned by the artist in 1902 and remained his place of work until his death in 1906, a tranquil retreat with a blooming garden and expansive views over the surrounding countryside.

Since opening its doors in 1954, the museum has set to preserve the studio as left by Cézanne, with many of the artist’s personal effects and inspirational objects laid out around the room. Cézanne’s easel and paints lie in the spot where masterpieces like Les Grandes Baigneuses (The Large Bathers) and La Femme à la Cafétière (The Woman with the Coffee Pot) were created; elsewhere, vases, scarves and fruits are laid out into carefully construed still art creations. Fans will recognize many of the seemingly mundane objects, like the skulls from Cézanne’s iconic 1901 painting, Pyramid of Skulls, or the coffee pot that inspired La Femme à la Cafétière.

While art lovers may bemoan the lack of actual artwork on display at the studio, the museum’s allure lies in its simplicity – an evocative space that feels as though the artist himself could return at any moment. The effect is further dramatized by the use of the space for video screenings, most notably the atmospheric films shown in the garden during summer evenings.

As Europe's only protected park to contain land, water, and semi-urban areas, Calanques National Park (Parc National des Calanques) is a mecca for outdoor adventurers. Whether you want to snorkel and sail, kayak and climb, or hike and watch out for wildlife, France's answer to the Garden of Eden has it all.

The Basics
The Calanques — known separately as Calanque de Sormiou, Calanque de Morgiou, Calanque d'En-Vau, Calanque de Port-Pin, and Calanque de Sugiton — are the park's main attraction. These brilliant rocky promontories are best discovered on a long hike or by kayak — you might even spot daredevils abseiling or cliff diving from the colossal cliffs. Snorkelers and scuba divers are rewarded with a kaleidoscope of marine life during underwater excursions to Monte Cristo, home of the prison that inspired Alexander Dumas' work of classic literature. Travelers without the desire to go underwater can explore the park with ease on an electric bike tour or fishing trip.

If you're short on time in the treasured French Riviera, consider combining sightseeing tours of Marseille and Cassis with a visit to Calanques National Park. Alternatively, opt to spend more time in the park's crystal-clear waters with a two-day scuba diving course.

• Most tours provide round-trip transport from your accommodation in Marseille, Cassis, or the Aix-en-Provence area.
• Be sure to bring plenty of water and sunscreen to the park.
• It's best to wear comfortable shoes fit for outdoor exploration.
• Note that camping and motorized water sports are not allowed in the protected area.

How To Get to Calanques National Park
Although nestled between popular Marseille and Cassis, Calanques National Park is not easy to access by public transport or without a guide. The best way to visit the national park is by boat from Port de Cassis (cruises depart every 90 minutes daily) or on a day trip from central Marseille. If arriving by car, be aware that the closest beach is about a one-hour hike from available parking lots.

When To Get There
The most popular time to visit the French Riviera is during the summer months of June to September, when temperatures sit comfortably in the 70s F (20s C) and rain is nowhere to be found. However, if you prefer cooler climates and want to miss the crowds, May and June are the ideal months to head to the park.

The heart and soul of the Vieil Aix (Old Town) the historic Cours Mirabeau is the main thoroughfare of Aix en Provence, passing between the ring roads that mark the boundaries of the old medieval center and the new town. A broad tree-lined avenue crammed with shops, restaurants and cafés, Cours Mirabeau runs from the iconic statue of King Rene (Fontaine du Roi René) in Place Forbin, to the stately Place du General de Gaulle.

Simply strolling the wide avenue – a spacious 42 meters wide - is enough to unveil many of its charms. Elegant 17th-century mansions, walled gardens and ornamental fountains line the sidewalks and a pit stop at one of the many alfresco cafés is the perfect way to take in the scenery. Once home to the city’s elite, Cours Mirabeau boasts one-time residents like a young Cezanne and architectural highlights include the monumental entrance of Hotel de Villiers and the regal Hôtel d'Arbod Jouques. Look out for the many impressive fountains along the route too; most notably the masterpiece of ‘La Rotonde’, which takes center stage in the Place Général de Gaulle.

Immortalized by Alexandre Dumas' intrepid protagonist Edmond Dantes in 'The Count of Monte Cristo' (Le Comte de Monte Cristo), the 16th-century fortress of Château d'If has allured history and literature buffs since it opened to the public in 1890. Perched on a rocky islet west of Marseille's Port Vieux (Old Port), the fortress-turned-jail incarcerated anyone opposing official authority between 1580 and 1871, endowing it with the status of one of France's most significant historical landmarks.

The Basics
For a holistic introduction to Marseille's rich history, combine your visit to Château d'If with a sightseeing tour or shore excursion of Marseille city, a jewel in the coastal crown of the French Riviera. Tick off Cathedrale de la Major, Notre-Dame de la Garde church, and Fort Saint-Jean before a guided tour of Château d'If. For travelers that prefer to explore independently, a Marseille city pass (valid for 24, 48, or 72 hours) covers your entry and boat ride to Château d'If, in addition to admission to 13 of Marseille's museums and a free walking tour.

If you've got limited time in Provence, a full-day cruise from Marseille to Cassis comes highly recommended — the panoramic views of the Côte d'Azur, the Gulf of Cassis, and the rocky promontories of the Marseille calanques reveal themselves in sun-drenched splendor. Afterwards, enjoy a guided tour of Château d'If that reveals the fortress' history.

• A visit to the fortress is ideal for history and literature enthusiasts.
• Audio guides are available in 11 languages.
• Take a packed lunch or book a tour with an included meal, as only ice cream and drinks are available to purchase on the island of If.
• If venturing to If independently, put aside three hours to cover the round-trip journey from Marseille and the fortress and island tour.

How to Get to Château d'If
From Vieux Port in Marseille, the Frioul If Express departs every hour, with the last departure from Marseille running at 4:05pm. The journey only takes 20 minutes and offers beautiful views of the Mediterranean's Frioul archipelago, which, in addition to If island, includes the islands of Pomegues and Ratonneau.

When to Get There
Château d'If is open between 10am and 6pm throughout the year but closed on Mondays. Due to its coastal location, it is more pleasant to visit on a warm and sunny afternoon. The summer months of June through September are prime for their warm climate and balmy coastal breeze.

Designed by Marseillais architect Pierre Puget and constructed between 1671 and 1749, the 3-storey, arcaded courtyard of the Centre de la Vieille Charité wraps around Provence's most imposing Baroque church. Initially built as a charity shelter for the town's poor but it was more like a prison: 17th century France was tough. Chasse-gueux (beggar-hunters) were paid to round up the poor and put them into almshouses which were effectively workhouses. In 1736, the Centre housed 850, by 1760 it was 1059 but by 1781 it was less acceptable to imprison people just for being poor and the number dropped to 250.

Spared during the French Revolution and used as an asylum, the Centre then became a barracks, a soldiers' rest home and, later, low-cost housing for people who lost their homes during WWII, the stunning arched pink-stone courtyard of the Centre de la Vieille Charite now houses Marseille's beautiful Musee d'Archeologie Mediterraneenne and Musee d'Arts Africains, Oceaniens & Amerindiens. The latter houses a diverse and often striking collection, including masks from the Americas, Africa and the Pacific.

Les Baux-de-Provence is a charming town in the Provence region, and whose name refers to its location: in Provençal, a baou is a rocky spur. Baux-de-Provence has a fantastic position amidst the Alpilles mountains, and is considered to be one of the most beautiful villages in France.

The stunning location is set atop a rocky formation complete with a ruined vast fortress. Baux-de-Provence has a rich history: in the middle ages, Cardinal Richelieu ordered the demolition of the castle because the village housed protestant rebels. The village is also the site where the aluminium ore Bauxite which was first discovered in 1821 by geologist Pierre Berthier, and as such the ore bears its name.

One of Aix-en-Provence’s oldest and most impressive works of architecture, the exquisite Cathédrale Saint Sauveur, or Cathedral of the Holy Saviour, towers over the city’s Vieil Aix (the Old Town). Although dating back to the 5th century, the cathedral has amassed a number of restorations and additions over the years, resulting in an eclectic mix of architectural styles. Exploring the cathedral is like taking a tour through the ages, with Romanesque, Gothic, Neo-Gothic and Baroque elements woven seamlessly together in a unique collage of French architecture.

A listed historical monument of France, the cathedral features a richly carved Romanesque portal on its south side and an elaborate 15th-century Gothic portal on the north, including striking door carvings by Jean Guiramand, topped with a 14th-century bell tower. Highlights of the interiors include three distinctly styled naves, a 12th-century cloister, a 5th century polygonal Merovingian baptistery and an 18th-century gilt Baroque organ. Most famous is the iconic triptych 'Mary in the Burning Bush', a 15th century masterpiece painted by Nicholas Froment under commission of King René of Anjou and displayed over the altar.