Things to Do in Puglia

The glories of Puglia’s lovely town of Lecce came into being in the 16th and 17th centuries, when peace in the region enabled religious orders and wealthy benefactors, including Emperor Charles V, to transform the town from sleepy backwater to the Baroque gem of southern Italy. The glorious centerpiece of all this gorgeousness is undoubtedly the Basilica di Santa Croce, a swirling mass of ornate Baroque patterning crawling with garlands, statuary, mythical beasts and gargoyles, all fronted with a colonnaded façade that is dominated by a vast rose window.

Work began on this madcap architectural frippery in 1549 on the site of an earlier Celestine monastery, and the basilica was finally consecrated in 1695. Three generations of architects worked on the construction over the decades, with the most notable being Giuseppe Zimballo—better known as Lo Zingarello (the gypsy)who was the star Puglian architect of the period. Along with his sidekick Cesare Penna, he was responsible for the uppermost, and most intricate, level of the basilica. 

Built on land confiscated from Jewish citizens, the exterior of Santa Croce is a confection of Baroque detailing but the interior is decidedly plainer and Renaissance in style. Highlights include the coffered wooden ceilings and the fanciful altars in the 17 chapels. Together with the equally splendid and adjacent Palazzo dei Celestini, which was also the work of Lo Zingarello, the basilica forms the architectural high point of a ravishing town center. 

Lecce is known for its 17th-century Baroque beauty, but the city’s history stretches back to the Roman empire. Nowhere is this legacy more evident than in Lecce’s Piazza Sant’Oronzo, where an amphitheater from the second century BC is still used today for performances.

 

Discovered in the early 1900s and excavated in 1938, Lecce’s Roman amphitheater was once five stories high. It seated 25,000 spectators and hosted gladiator bouts to entertain the legions of Roman soldiers billeted in what is now the region of Puglia. Beneath the arena, the pens that once housed animals, prisoners, and slaves can be seen among the ruins. Under the watchful eye of the statue of Sant’Oronzo—the patron saint of Lecce—which sits atop a Roman column, the amphitheater is currently used for more peaceful pursuits, including a summer series of concerts and plays.

 

Because of its archaeological importance, it's best to visit Lecce’s Roman amphitheater with a walking or bike tour led by a knowledgeable guide. Many tours also include visits to Lecce’s famous Baroque Duomo, Basilica di Santa Croce, and Chiesa di Santa Chiara.

 

 

The amphitheater is located in Lecce’s main Piazza Sant’Oronzo, the heart of the city’s historic center and an easy walk from the train station and other important sights and attractions.

 

The city of Lecce can get uncomfortably hot in the summer, so plan to visit first thing in the morning or in the late afternoon from June to September. Lecce celebrates its three patron saints each year August 23–25, with light displays, music, and festivities, making it is an especially memorable time to visit.

 

Lecce is famous for its sumptuous architecture, including magnificently carved and decorated churches and palaces made of Leccese-stone and dating from the 17th-century. These structures are  considered masterpieces of the Baroque style. The most famous examples include the Cathedral (Duomo), the Basilica of Santa Croce, and the Church of Santa Chiara.

Bari is one of the largest cities on southern Italy’s Adriatic coast and a major cruise ship port and ferry hub for routes to Greece, Turkey, Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro, and Albania. Before exploring the surrounding region of Puglia or heading farther afield by ferry, tour Bari’s charming historical center and seafront promenade.

Highlights of Bari’s old town (Bari Vecchia or San Nicola) include the Romanesque Basilica di San Nicola, dedicated to the Saint Nicholas the rest of the world knows as Santa Claus; Via Sparano, the city’s elegant boulevard lined with designer shops; and Castello Svevo, a castle now used for art exhibitions. The city also has a lively market, busting restaurants and cafés, and vibrant nightlife.  

Bari’s old town is surrounded by a vast urban sprawl of apartment blocks and office buildings, so the best way to visit is by joining a private or small-group tour that includes a transfer from the port to the center of the historical district. 

Shore excursions and private tours generally include port pickup and drop-off, though there is a local bus that stops right outside the port terminal, taxis, and a shuttle bus. It’s possible to walk to Bari’s historical core from the port, but it’s not a particularly pleasant stroll.

The official language at the Bari cruise port is Italian, although the local dialect is a hybrid of Italian and Greek surviving from the town’s fishing-port days. Not a lot of English is spoken, and due to its busy ferry terminal, the port area can be a Tower of Babel of languages. The currency is the euro.

Lecce’s Church of St. Irene was built between 1591 and 1639 for the Theatines and dedicated to the city’s patron saint. The church is not far from the Duomo and the Basilica di Santa Croce in Lecce’s city center.

The facade of the church features a statue of Saint Irene, sculpted in the early 18th century. Above that statue is Lecce’s emblem - a shelf-wolf and an oak tree. Artwork worth noting inside the church includes a number of beautiful altarpieces. A particularly large altar dedicated to Saint Cajetan dates from the late 17th century, and two other altarpieces date from the mid-17th century - including one to Saint Irene.

Some walking tours of Lecce include a stop in the Church of St. Irene, though many will make passing reference to the church from the outside.

Piazza del Ferrarese is a public square in the historic part of Bari, not far from the city's waterfront. There are two large squares in Bari's Old Town, known as Barivecchia: Piazza del Ferrarese and Piazza Mercantile, which connect to one another. The former was named for a 17th-century merchant from Ferrara who once lived there.

 

This part of Bari is newly redeveloped, making it more enticing for visitors, and the businesses lining both squares are part of that effort. Piazza del Ferrarese is surrounded by bars, restaurants, and shops, not to mention that there is part of an ancient Roman road in the middle of the square.

The 12th-century Swabian Castle (Castello Normanno-Svevo), with its fortified ramparts and vaulted halls, is one of top sights in Bari and a refreshing break from the port city’s Romanesque churches and art collections. Climb the Hohenstaufen tower and Aragon walls for sweeping views of the city and sea.

 

The Swabian Castle was built on the Adriatic seafront in 1132 by Norman conquerors to keep the citizens of Bari in check. Damaged later during a skirmish with Sicily, the fortress was rebuilt and extended in 1233 by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II; its thick walls and moat were added during the 16th century when the castle became a private residence. During its long life, this waterfront castle has been owned by several Italian noble families and used as a prison and army barracks. Today, the tranquil courtyard and halls house the Gipsoteca, a museum of sculptural fragments in plaster from important monuments in Bari Vecchia, the city’s historic center.

 

One of the top attractions in Bari, Swabian Castle is included in most walking or bike tours of the historic center, along with the Basilica of St. Nicholas, the Cathedral of St. Sabino, and Piazza Mercantile.

 

 

The Swabian Castle is located on Piazza Federico II di Svevia, adjacent the city’s historic center and an easy walk from the train station and from other important sights and attractions.

 

Southern Italian cities can get uncomfortably hot in the summer, and Bari is no exception. Plan your visit to Swabian Castle for first thing in the morning or during the late afternoon if you are traveling between June and September. The castle is closed on Mondays.

 

Inside the castle, three large vaulted halls house Bari’s Gipsoteca, a museum that collects sculptural fragments, plaster casts of architectural motifs, and decorations made of marble and stone. The sculptures and fragments come from some of the most important churches and palaces in the region, tracing architectural styles from ancient times through the 18th century.

The Porta Napoli in Lecce is a triumphal arch that once served as one of three entrances into the historic city center. These gates were built into the city walls, and though the walls no longer exist the Porta Napoli still stands.

The gate was built in 1548 after a commission by the Habsburg Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, Charles V, to fortify the city. Because of this funding, Lecce thanked the Emperor by decorating the Porta Napoli with the Habsburg family emblem.

Porta Napoli is a stop on many tours through Lecce. Because it doesn’t have open hours or an entry fee, it’s easy to admire at any time of day. For more explanation of the symbolism on the arch or the history behind it, however, a tour guide is useful.

The history of the postcard-pretty town of Lecce stretches right back to the Greek empire, when it was known as Messapi. Later, it was an important trading post in Roman times before becoming a center of learning in the Middle Ages. Today, it is famed for its peerless Baroque architecture, and there’s no better place to experience Lecce’s past than at the Museo Faggiano, an eccentric little museum hidden away in a backwater townhouse.

Once behind the unassuming façade, a whole new world opens up; the museum reveals layer upon layer of the town’s past over several levels unearthed during excavations. Presented against a backdrop of bare plaster walls marked with inscriptions from the Knights Templar, discoveries include a Roman altar, a well that reaches down to the underground river Idume, medieval walls, the remnants of a convent and a subterranean passageway thought to run all the way to the center of the town. Scattered among the pottery shards, cisterns and crumbling statues on display are some grisly horrors, including the tomb of a newly born baby and bones from corpses buried by the nuns.

Puglia’s Gargano National Park is one of the largest in Italy, covering more than 467 square miles (1,211 square km) of the promontory in Puglia that looks like the boot-shaped country’s spur. The park is named for Monte Gargano, a mountain peak on the promontory, and includes an archipelago of islands off the coast called the Tremiti Islands.

Like other national parks in Italy, Gargano is popular with visitors (Italians and foreign alike) for the great natural beauty and diversity of terrain, which means there is a variety of outdoor activities you can do in the park. There are two lakes, in addition to all the coastline along the edge of the region, so there are many opportunities to go boating. Hiking is also extremely popular. One of the main attractions within the park, however, is San Giovanni Rotondo, where Padre Pio (now a saint) is buried. It’s a beloved pilgrimage location.

Organized hiking or trekking tours in Gargano National Park are available for those seeking an opportunity to explore the park’s natural wonders. There are also day trips to San Giovanni Rotondo from as far away as Sorrento or Naples.

Bari is the capital city of Puglia in southern Italy and over its years as the most important port on the Adriatic it acquired a rich and varied architectural legacy. Chief among these is the landmark grandeur of the Basilica di San Nicola in Barivecchia, the centro storico that lies at the heart of the modern city. Some 150 years in the making, the cathedral was completed in 1197, when Bari was under Norman rule; it is a fine example of Puglian-Romanesque architecture with a squat, austere and simple façade. Inside there’s a fine mosaic floor, clearly showing Turkish influence, plus a fine altar and a carved 12th-century stone bishops’ throne, supported by comedic sagging figures. 

The basilica is a point of pilgrimage for both Catholic and Orthodox Christians as it contains the relics of St Nicholas, which were stolen in the 11th century from his original resting place in Myra in present day Turkey. He is patron saint of Bari but better known across the English-speaking world as Santa Claus or Father Christmas, provider of much excitement for children come December 24. His remains are found in the crypt, which is adorned with carved columns and gleaming icons; it is believed that myrrh seeps constantly from his body, a legend celebrated on December 6 along with solemn processions through the city. 

The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Castel del Monte was built in the latter half of the 12th century by Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II. At this time his realm stretched across much of southern Italy, and he was also responsible for the Castello Normanno-Svevo in Bari, the region’s biggest city, as well as a series of hunting lodges across his domain.

Sitting on a remote hillock among endless undulating plains, Castel del Monte is regarded as a masterpiece of medieval architecture, taking its influences from both Classical and Islamic building styles. Perfectly octagonal in shape, it is constructed around a courtyard and boasts a series of octagonal towers. Internally, it comprises two stories containing eight rooms in each, and although the rich furnishings and much of the decoration are long gone, the marble moldings around the great entrance doorway and the lack of fortifications suggest that the castle may have been a private residence rather than for military purposes. With the demise of the Sicilian empire, the castle was abandoned, and by the 16th century had fallen into disrepair; over the centuries it has been used variously as a prison, a refuge from plague and a hang out for bandits. Today it stands empty and proud, a monument to the political and cultural flowering that saw southern Italy come to prominence in the Middle Ages. 

Lecce is famous for its sumptuous baroque architecture, and the Italian city’s main cathedral (Duomo di Lecce) is one of the most ornate examples. Its magnificently carved and adorned Leccese-stone facade is a 17th-century masterpiece and one of the highlights of this city on Puglia’s Salento peninsula. 

The original Norman cathedral was built on Piazza del Duomo in the mid-12th century. More than 500 years later, the church was completely reworked in the baroque style and finished by Giuseppe Zimbalo, who had a hand in many of Lecce’s most beautiful churches and palaces, and is now buried beneath the church’s altar, dedicated to the city’s patron saint. The 17th-century Bishop’s Palace and 18th-century Palazzo Seminario and cloister are also located in the square alongside the Duomo, and looming over everything is the 230-foot (70-meter) bell tower. 

The city, and the entire surrounding province of Lecce, has some of the loveliest baroque architecture in Europe, and walking tours of the city include stops at the Duomo and other important architectural monuments. For a more in-depth tour of the interior of the cathedral and other buildings on the piazza, opt for a private tour.

Piazza del Duomo and Lecce Cathedral are about a 3-minute walk from the city’s main Piazza Sant'Oronzo, through a jumble of streets of the old town (centro storico).

Lecce celebrates its three patron saints each year on August 23, 24, and 25. The entire city celebrates with light displays, music, and festivities, so it is an especially memorable time to visit Lecce and its cathedral.

In addition to its Duomo, Lecce has a number of other 17th-century architectural treasures in its historic center, including the Basilica di Santa Croce and the Church of Santa Chiara (Chiesa di Santa Chiara).