Things to Do in Southeast Brazil

One of the most expensive strips of real estate in Latin America, Avenida Paulista is São Paulo’s most iconic thoroughfare. What started out as a residential street lined with the ornate neoclassical mansions of 19th-century coffee barons has, in a little over a century, turned into an urban canyon of glass and steel and a modern hub of business, culture and entertainment.

Anchored on one end by busy Shopping Paulista mall and on the other by multi-use architectural standout Conjunto Nacional—vaguely reminiscent of the famed congress building in Brasília—, Avenida Paulista serves as the address for many of the city’s most important cultural institutions, including the São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP), lush Parque Trianon and the Casa das Rosas arts center (located in one of the last mansions remaining on the street).

Though several hundred thousand denizens file into Avenida Paulista’s office buildings every weekday, the street remains lively come nightfall, when restaurants and nightclubs along cross-streets in the adjacent neighborhoods of Jardins and Bela Vista fill with diners and party-goers. Anything goes on buzzing Rua Augusta, one of the city’s liveliest nighttime haunts, and even more goes on Rua Frei Caneca, epicenter of São Paulo’s gay and lesbian scene. Sunday afternoons, craft fairs and flea markets spring up at the foot of the MASP as families stroll along the strip, and throughout the year, big events such as the world’s largest gay pride parade (May/June), the renowned São Silvestre road race (December 31st), and New Year’s Eve celebrations bring a few million people into the area.

Situated in a sleek, chic modernist house in Santa Teresa, Rio’s bohemian quarter, the Chacara do Ceu Museum houses part of the vast art collection of the late Brazilian industrialist and aesthete, Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya. Over the course of his 74-year lifespan, Castro Maya amassed over 22,000 works of art, a large portion of which is displayed at the museum (the others are showcased at the affiliated Museu do Açude, Castro Maya’s other house).

The Chacara do Ceu itself is a work of art, built amidst lush gardens in 1954 with a 360-degree panoramic view of Rio and the surrounding area. The name of the house and museum means “Country House of the Sky,” and the views of both the city and the artworks are heavenly.

The museum features the works of Brazilian and international painters, sculptors, and engravers--from contemporary artist Candido Portinari to French Impressionist master Henri Matisse. Sadly, a Matisse, a Picasso, a Dalí, and a Monet were stolen from the museum in 2006 and never recovered. Still, the remaining items in the collection more than make up for the lost pieces, and the insanely low admission price ensures that art is accessible to the Brazilian public, to whom Castro Maya bequeathed his collection upon his death in 1968.

The Cosme Velho neighborhood is best known as the jumping-off point to ascend Corcovado Mountain to Christ the Redeemer. Most visitors to Rio will set foot in this small, historic area on their way to the city’s most iconic attraction, but it’s worth it to explore beyond that. From shady plazas overgrown with jungle to colonial architecture, Cosme Velho offers a taste of Rio’s old-time charm. The neighborhood’s principal street, Rua Cosme Velho, snakes up into the hilly area and to ‘Estação de Ferro do Corcovado,’ where visitors catch the funicular to the Christ Statue. Beyond the station, the neighborhood becomes mostly residential and continues way up the hill into the rain forest.

While in Cosme Velho, before or after seeing the Christ, allot some time to roam the winding, leafy avenues with quaint shops, or grab something to eat in one of the many open-air cafes. Just across the street and a few yards up from the funicular station lies Boticário Square (Largo do Boticário). This plaza of early 19th-century Portuguese buildings has fallen into disrepair, but the brightly colored colonial structures set among the rain forest scenery retain the square’s original charm. Art-lovers can head to the International Museum of Naïf Art just down the road from the station, where they’ll find a small colonial-era building housing an impressive collection of 6,000 paintings from 120 different countries, which focus on struggle and marginalized populations.

An enduring symbol of São Paulo’s 20th-century race to modernity, the Edifício Altino Arantes—more commonly known as the Banespa Tower or Banespão—remains one of the most notable landmarks on the city’s exhaustive skyline. Originally built as the headquarters of the State Bank of São Paulo (Banespa) and named for one of the bank’s first presidents, the tower rose over an eight-year period, crowning the city as its tallest building in 1947, a title held for the next 18 years. At completion, the 528-foot tower also held the title of tallest reinforced concrete structure and tallest building outside of the United States. Inspired by New York City’s Empire State Building, the tower exhibits Art Deco styling both inside and out.

Despite being the third-tallest building in the city, the Banespa is situated on the highest point in downtown São Paulo, giving it the appearance of being even taller than the Mirante do Vale, today the tallest building in Brazil at 558 feet. Panoramic, 360-degree views of the city from the 35th-floor observation deck extend to over 25 miles, encompassing all of downtown and even the verdant Serra da Cantareira mountain range to the city’s north. The observation deck and the first-floor building museum is free to visitors and open Monday through Friday, except holidays, from 10am to 5pm.

This incredible waterfall in the heart of the rainforest is just 30 minutes outside Paraty. Its one-of-a-kind natural waterslide sends travelers shooting down slippery rocks into a warm water pool. Expert guides can help visitors navigate the best (and safest) rocky crags, but it is possible to venture to Cachoeira without taking a tour. Spend some time splashing around this unique destination, then head to nearby Bar Tarzan, where an old creaky bridge leads to cold beers, delicious snacks and the perfect place to unwind.

With miles of white sand beaches, aquamarine waters and a backdrop of forested mountains, Angra dos Reis, or the Bay of Kings, is as impressive as its name suggests and known as one of the top attractions of Brazil’s famous Costa Verde (Green Coast). The main draw of Angra dos Reis is its serene coastline, and with 365 islands dotting the bay, there are many beaches to explore.   Cruising around the islands is a popular pastime for visitors, and the warm, clear waters offer ample opportunities for swimming, snorkelling and scuba diving. Ilha Grande is the largest and most visited island, but additional highlights include the fish-filled waters around the Botinas islands, the lush rainforest trails on Gipóia and the floating bars around Jurubaíba Beach and Praia do Dentista.