Things to Do in The Pampas

Red wine and red-hot tango are two of Argentina’s top exports and few places do both as well as El Querandi, one of the most famous tango venues in Buenos Aires. The atmospheric restaurant and wine bar is as popular with locals, who fill up on lunchtime steaks, as it is with tourists, who frequent the legendary dinner tango shows, and serves up an acclaimed menu of Argentine cuisine and local wines.

The historic venue has been making its mark in the tango world since it first opened its doors in 1920 and while the nightly dinner shows are now mostly for the benefit of tourists, the passion and artistry of the tango is still very much alive. Tracing the history of the sultry tango from the late 19th century bordellos, through its many generational interpretations and including plenty of gasp-inducing modern twists, the El Querandi tango show is a stylish introduction to the iconic dance. Entering the dimly lit venue is like stepping back in time, with tuxedoed waiters and glittering chandeliers bringing a touch of old world glamor, film reels showcasing clips of the tango greats and dazzling costumes and performances by some of the city’s most talented dancers.

With over 350 different animal species and an acclaimed exotic breeding program, Buenos Aires Zoo is the go-to place for urban wildlife spotting, hitting headlines at the start of 2013 when one of its Bengal White Tigers produced a rare litter of four cubs. Located close to Plaza Italia in the heart of the city’s Palermo district, the zoo has been running since 1888 and today houses over 2,500 animal inhabitants, as well as spearheading Argentina’s zoological research, education and preservation efforts.

The 18-hectare park aims to mimic a range of different ecosystems, with a variety of unique enclosures and architecturally impressive buildings, set around a boating lake and island inhabited by a population of Madagascan Lemurs. Highlights include the subtropical jungle exhibition, where a suspension bridge offers a prime view of the lush vegetation and birdlife; an aquarium where piranhas, sea sharks and tropical fish are displayed alongside a penguin and seal pool; a Japanese style pagoda housing a family of Giant pandas;  and a dimly-lit bat enclosure. Giraffes, rhinoceros, pumas, lions, monkeys and elephants are just some of the zoo’s animal inhabitants, along with some more unique specimens like Red Pandas, Orangutans and a colorful array of native birdlife. There’s even a petting zoo where visitors can interact and feed goats, donkeys, llamas and Shetland ponies. The zoo also frequently opens its doors during the evening hours with after-dark visits offering the chance to see a different side of the animals’ lifestyle as well as getting the rare opportunity to watch the zoo’s nocturnal animals at large.

The eye-catching salmon-pink façade of Argentina’s presidential palace is one of the capital’s most iconic sights, standing proud over the city’s historic Plaza de Mayo public square. The aptly named Casa Rosada, or the ‘Pink House’, is the secondary mansion and office of the Argentine President, housing the government offices and providing the striking backdrop to Buenos Aires’ often-turbulent political history.

Erected in 1862, the Renaissance-style palace was initially to be painted white and theories abound as to hoe it got its rosy makeover, from ox blood being mixed into the paint to the then-President blending the red and white colors of opposing political rallyists. Designated a National Historic Monument of Argentina, the pink palace is perhaps most legendary for its lower balcony, from which the beloved Evita rallied the working class crowds back in 1949 – a moment that was famously recreated by Madonna in the 1996 movie Evita and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical of the same name.

The Casa Rosada now houses a museum showcasing the presidential history of Argentina and many of the opulent government chambers are open to the public by guided tour. Tour participants even get the chance to stand on Evita’s famous balcony, offering expansive views over the bustling Plaza de Mayo below.

Often referred to as “the Paris of South America,” Buenos Aires features chic neighborhoods, world class museums and nonstop shopping. With French, Spanish and Italian influences and a distinct European feel, the capital of Argentina is diverse and cosmopolitan, while retaining a fair amount of old world charm.

How to Get to Buenos Aires
Your ship will dock at the pier about a half-mile from the center of Buenos Aires. Complimentary shuttle buses may be available to take you into town. Otherwise, taxis are plentiful and many offer set prices to certain neighborhoods. Walking from the port into the center of the city is not recommended.

One Day in Buenos Aires
Start your day in El Centro, the cultural, historical and financial center of Buenos Aires. Ask your taxi to drop you off at the Plaza de Mayo. There, check out the 18th-century Metropolitan Cathedral and catch a glimpse of the Casa Rosado, where Eva Peron addressed Argentinian crowds from the balcony. Then, make your way on foot along the pedestrian shopping street, Calle Florida, to the Plaza San Martin. From there, head north to the upscale Recoleta neighborhood, where you can spend the rest of your morning.

The prime attraction in Recoleta is the Recoleta Cemetery, the burial place for the city’s aristocracy since 1822. Covering four square blocks, it is lined with elaborately designed tombs and mausoleums, and is the final resting place for Eva Peron. If you are visiting on a weekend, your next stop should be the nearby Plaza Independiente Alvear, home to a lively crafts and souvenir market. If not, take some time to visit the Museum of Fine Arts, the largest museum in the country, or take in some of the art galleries throughout the neighborhood.

By now, you may be so hungry you could eat a steak - and you should, since Argentina has some of the best! If you won’t have time to enjoy dinner in the city, take a break at lunch to enjoy both a glass of Argentina’s fine wine and a nice steak. Whether you hang around Recoleta or return to Calle Florida, you’ll find plenty of restaurants to choose from.

After lunch, grab a taxi or retrace your steps along Calle Florida to Plaza de Mayo, and then make your way to the working class neighborhood of La Boca. In La Boca, you’ll discover a colorful artists’ quarter where the tango was born. Wander around the cobbled streets before heading to El Caminito, a pedestrian marketplace for craftsmen where you may also catch couples dancing the tango.

Alternatively, you may want to spend your afternoon exploring some of Buenos Aires’ fine museums, including the National Museum of Decorative Arts, the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires and the National History Museum. Opera fans may also want to take a guided tour of the Colon Theater, one of the most lavish opera houses in the world.

Don’t forget to grab a few souvenirs before heading back to your ship – leather goods, wine, gems and handicrafts are all excellent options.

Port Information
The official language is a form of Spanish known as Castellano, but English is generally spoken in hotels and shops. The currency is the Argentinian peso, but you may be able to use US dollars in some instances. ATM's can be found throughout the city and credit cards are widely accepted.

El Cabildo, a modest, two-story colonial building along the edge of Plaza de Mayo, once served as Buenos Aires’s original city hall. Within the white facade, meetings were held about Argentina’s declaration of independence in the first decades of the nineteenth century, the Uruguayan constitution was signed within the building in 1830, and it housed the National Court of Justice during the late 1800s. 

The Centro Cívico was built in the late 1930s, to reflect the architecture of the early German and Swiss settlers (from Berne) in a style referred to as “Bariloche-Alpine.” It serves as a central reference point, and a nearby sheltered area houses the helpful, multilingual tourist office.

The plaza that lies between the civic center and Lake Nahuel Huapi is a scene of ongoing activity and contrast. There are the tourist-happy vendors, complete with photo-ops with barrel-toting Saint Bernards, and more than its share of postcard vendors. At the same time, there’s a continual rotation of graffiti on the statue of General Roca, a controversial figure in Argentine military history.

Connected to the Centro Cívico is a tall stone tower with a steeply-pitched roof, which serves as the clock tower (Torre Reloj), and which strikes noon every day. Also on the plaza, to the north east, is the Museo de La Patagonia Perito Moreno (Perito Moreno Patagonian Museum), which brings together ethno-historical and natural displays, the former about the original (indigenous) inhabitants of the area, such as the Mapuche, Tehuelche and Fuegian peoples.

The natural history part of the museum contains a taxidermied collection of animals endemic to the area and farther afield. The third part of the museum follows Bariloche’s development from its founding in 1903. Next to the Patagonian Museum is the Biblioteca Sarmiento, a library and cultural center. One block north is the building that houses the administration of the national parks.