Things to Do in North Coast

The Temples de Moche (Huacas de Moche), are Trujillo’s two most important sites that date to the Moche Empire. It’s hard to enough to fathom that civilizations existed here over 2,000 years ago, and even harder to fathom how some of their artwork has miraculously managed to remain. 

At the Huaca de la Luna—Temple of the Moon—archaeologists are still uncovering frescoes which were thankfully missed by looters. Many of the paintings depict the deity Ayapec, whose snarling face and animated teeth are found on everything from ceramics to walls. It’s also believed that Huaca de Luna was a site of human sacrifice, and diggers have unearthed dozens of remains that suggest torture, warfare, and sacrifice.  Given the murals and the human remains, it’s highly likely that the Huaca de Luna was a site of religious importance, and walking the corridors of the temple today is as enchanting as it is surreal. 

Across the dusty Moche Valley, the Huaca del Sol—Temple of the Sun—rises 135 feet from the desert and is comprised of over 50 million bricks. It’s officially classified as the world’s largest adobe structure, although due to heavy looting by the Spanish and damage from El Niño rains, the temple hasn’t been excavated as heavily and is closed to the general public.

Some might say that the city of Chiclayo is short on touristic sights, while others will claim that the comfortable city is a sight unto itself. Simply walking about town and experiencing everyday life is one of the best ways to experience Chiclayo, and the best place in the city for a casual stroll is the manicured Paseo de las Musas.

To enter this pedestrian thoroughfare, walk beneath a monument of four white columns that tower 20 feet over the park. The well-landscaped floral arrangements make this a romantic local escape, and the multiple plazas and wide walkways create a comfortable atmosphere for people watching. What makes the walkway so unique, however, are the nine statues of ancient muses that are found in Greek mythology. On a sunny day, while enjoying a picnic in the grassy, shaded promenade, the entire area takes on the feel of a classical European plaza, and the Paseo de las Musas becomes the perfect place for killing time in Chiclayo.

Temple of the Dragon (Huaco el Dragon) is an immaculately preserved Chimú temple just outside Trujillo. The pyramid-shaped adobe structure features intricate frieze murals depicting rainbows, dragons, and figures that have valiantly stood the test of time. Less known than other Chimú sites, this anti-seismic temple is an engineering marvel.

 

With a local guide, learn the history and various theories surrounding the mysterious pre-Inca site, also known as Huaca Arco Iris (Rainbow Temple), built by the Chimú people, who lived in northern Peru from about AD 900 to the 1400s. Inside the temple, the namesake figure carved on the walls takes the form of a two-headed creature like a dragon, but with countless legs like a centipede. Scholars believe the temple’s rainbow carvings, which represent rain—a precious life-giving resource here in the dry coastal desert—are a tribute to fertility. There is also evidence that the walls were once painted, although erosion from rains and centuries of looting have left the walls with only a hint of yellow glow. 

Travelers often visit this religious administrative and ceremonial center as part of an archaeological tour out of Trujillo that also includes larger temple complexes such as Chan Chan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

 

 

Temple of the Dragon is located about 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) outside of Trujillo in the La Esperanza suburb. You can reach the temple via public bus from Trujillo (there is a drop off in front of the temple), or by taxi or private tour. Inquire at your hotel about the best way to arrive.

The temple is open daily from 9am to 4pm.

Gain a greater understanding of the Chimú civilization by venturing from Temple of the Dragon to the nearby Chan Chan site. As the largest pre-Columbian city in South America, the adobe-walled archeological complex was the center of Chimú culture and politics until 1470, when the Incas arrived and promptly conquered the city. Led by a guide, explore the vast array of shrines, burial grounds, rain reservoirs, and ceremonial plazas flanked by walls adorned with friezes. 

Perhaps one of the most fascinating bits about Peru's ancient Moche culture is that even though they ruled this coastline over 2,000 years ago, we just now today are beginning to unearth the secrets of their civilization. At no place is this more apparent than at the archaeological complex of El Brujo, a collection of temples in the Chicama Valley that depict gruesome scenes of torture and burial and date back over 4,000 years.

Of the three complexes at the El Brujo complex, the Huaca Cao Viejo offers the most for visitors to experience, see, and explore. Constructed by the Moche between 200-600 AD, the Huaca de Cao has interior artwork which is similar to the Huaca de la Luna, although unlike its famous Trujillo counterpart, the artwork here hasn't been restored at all and exists in its original state. This area wasn't excavated until 1990, and dry sands of the coastal desert have been preserving these colorful paintings and murals for well over 1,500 years. 

Archaeologists also curiously unearthed a mummy that had been wrapped in 26 layers of cloth, only to discover it was a young woman who was wearing symbolic pieces of gold. Given the care taken to bury the body, it's believed the woman was one of the few Governesses to exist within the Moche Empire.  Next door, at the Huaca Prieta, the structure by the ocean is believed to date back to 2,500 BC, although excavations are still taking place and the site is closed to the public.

Oh, what Batán Grande must have looked like in 1100 AD. 

Located 20 miles north of Chiclayo, this sprawling remnant of the Sicán civilization is set amongst a grove of algorrobo trees that form the largest dryland forest on South America's west coast. Poking out from the field of green, eroded brown pyramids are all that remain of Sicán tombs that, for hundreds of years, were packed to the brim with gold. In fact, archaeologists estimate that over 90 percent of Peru's gold was sourced from this river valley, and much of the gold in private collections is from looters who pillaged the forest.

Visitors to Batán Grande today will find an interpretive center and small museum that tell the history of the surrounding forest, as well as a viewing platform for gazing above the groves of algorrobo. The tops of the huacas (pyramids) seem to float above the treetops like haunting, dusty relics, and one of the trees in the middle of the forest has been standing for over 1,000 years. Hand dug pits from hundreds of looters are evident as you walk the grounds, and from the top of a huaca gazing out over the forest, it's a surreal feeling to stand in this complex so many years after its devastating fall. 

Shamans. Potions. Witchcraft. Elixir. None of these are words that many travelers equate with the coastline of northern Peru. Traditional healing, however, is a central part to the different subsets of traditional Peruvian society, and historically Chiclayo has been an instrumental city in the gathering of shamans and healers. 

Located inside of the Mercado Modelo"”a large central market by the Plaza de Armas that is frequented by everyday shoppers"”the Chiclayo Witch Market is a fascinating stop for those who can stomach the surroundings. In these cluttered, colorful, and odiferous alleyways, healers hawk everything from dried snakes and monkey skulls to pieces of Andean condors. A traditional drink made from San Pedro cactus is known for its hallucinogenic effects, and it is sometimes offered to market visitors who befriend a local merchant. For a variable fee, traditional shamans can also be hired to perform ceremonial readings and healings, although be forewarned the process might involve a guinea pig or vomit-inducing concoctions.

Every archaeologist dreams of finding a place like Huaca Rajada. Forgotten in the desert for over 1,700 years, Huaca Rajada was a sacred burial site for Moche nobility and royalty. When local looters in 1987 were found with lavish gold artifacts, it tipped off police that a large discovery might be buried in the nearby desert. An archaeologist, Walter Alva, was called to the site to examine the possibility that other tombs might exist, and when his team unearthed the “Lord of Sipan” and his tomb of jewels and gold, it was heralded as the greatest discovery of the last 50 years of archaeology.

Today, travelers can visit the archaeological site where excavations are still taking place. Though many of the larger artifacts and displays have been moved to Chiclayo museums (notably the Royal Tombs Museum of Sipan and the Brüning National Archaeological Museum), there is still a small museum on site that displays some of the findings. Of particular interest are the re-created tombs that show the position the Lord of Sipan was found in after having been buried over 1,700 years ago.

In addition to the extravagant headdresses and jewelry, the tomb contained the remains of a priest, a child, a llama, two dogs, three concubines and a guard who was buried without feet. This, archaeologists say, is meant to symbolize the guard’s inability to ever flee from his post, and it’s just one of the many tales of lore which lay buried in the sands of Sipan.  

By Peruvian standards, the Chiclayo Cathedral in the Plaza de Armas is comparatively very young. Not constructed until 1869 (versus the early 16th and 17th centuries for churches in nearby Trujillo), the cathedral and its adjoining public square weren't inaugurated until 1916.  Despite its relative youth, however, the cathedral still exudes a sense of grandeur and is one of the most striking buildings in Chiclayo.

Rising along the eastern flank of the pedestrian-filled Plaza de Armas, the white columns and pale yellow façade exude a neoclassical style.  Also known as "Catedrál Santa Maria," the twin bell towers and their white cupolas gaze out over the city, and an exquisite altar and religious carvings grace the cathedral's interior. From the cathedral's steps looking out towards the plaza, visitors and locals walk and mingle through the always-happening square, and the area surrounding the Chiclayo Cathedral is one of the most popular parts of the city. 

At the heart of activity in Chiclayo, one of Peru's liveliest cities despite being only its fourth-largest is Parque Principal (Plaza de Armas). From sunup to well past sundown, this attractive green space is buzzing with activity, and it's impossible to visit the city without spending at least some time here.

The relatively small park, like many Plazas de Armas in Peru, sits beneath the shadow of a cathedral, this one a neoclassical, white, double-domed structure with a history dating back to 1869. Across the way is the city hall.

Some of the best times to visit Parque Principal are on weekends or during the evenings, when locals come out to gather around park benches and snack on street foods, creating a festive atmosphere.

There was once a time when a city in Peru was one of the largest known cities in the Americas. For nearly 600 years, the sprawling city was the seat of an Empire that extended for hundreds of miles, and its residents were masters of engineering techniques unknown to the rest of the world. No, we’re not talking about Machu Picchu, the ruin so often equated with Peru. Rather, this massive city was Chan Chan, a complex of adobe and sand.

Set on the outskirts of modern day Trujillo, Chan Chan was the seat of the Chimu Empire from 850-1470 AD. At its height, it’s believed to have housed up to 60,000 residents before being conquered by the infamous Inca.  With its wide open courtyards, narrow alleyways, and walls which reach heights of over 30 feet, the city of Chan Chan once covered an area of nearly 8 square miles of desert. Today, the Tschudi Palace area is open to visitors to walk in the footsteps of the Chimu, although an increase in rains that have been blamed on El Niño threaten to erode the site. For now, the city of Chan Chan is one of the most awe-inspiring wonders found anywhere in Latin America, although there is an unsettling degree of fear that it one day could be reduced to mud.

After the fall of the Moche Empire around 700 AD, the inhabitants of the Lambayeque region formed a culture now known as Sicán. Exceptionally skilled in metallurgy as well as a unique form of ceramics, the Sicán metal workers are credited with bringing the Bronze Age to northern Peru. Though massive drought would eventually bring the Sicán civilization to its knees, the ceramics, metal work, and tombs they left behind are intriguingly displayed at the Sicán National Museum in the town of Ferreñafe. 

When visiting the museum, not only will you find exquisite art pieces forged by Sicán craftsmen, but you will also find artifacts that point to the existence of trade with faraway neighbors. Blue stones, for example, exhibit trade with neighboring civilizations from as far away as Chile, and snails and shells found in Sicán tombs have been traced to the beaches of Ecuador.

Also of note when visiting the museum is the re-creation of a tomb where a man was found buried in the fetal position with his head facing down towards the floor. The position, it’s believed, was meant to mimic the process of being “birthed” into the afterlife, and is one of the many cultural curiosities on display in this modern museum. 

For archaeology and history buffs, Trujillo might be the most fascinating city along the entire coastline of Peru. This dry shoreline has been the historic site of thousands of years of civilizations, and empires in Trujillo have risen and fallen like the sand dunes along the coast. With each passing century, cultural artifacts and artistic relics have been preserved by the desert sands, many of which are on display today at the National University of Trujillo Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology, and History.

Inside of this small museum—which itself is housed in the 17th Century mansion known as La Casa Risco—visitors will find an astounding collection of Pre-Columbian art forms. Displays at the museum include pieces from the Chimu, Moche, and Inca Empires, and the jewelry, clothing, and ceramic artwork are windows into these ancient cultures. More than simply a display of artifacts, the multiple rooms of Casa Risco offer informative displays about the different civilizations that have existed along the coastline. Learn what caused the Empires to collapse and allowed others to rise, and get the latest updates on archaeological finds that are still being pulled from the Earth.

During the late 19th and early 20th century, German archaeologist Hans Heinrich Brüning Brookstedt devoted his life to Northern Peru. For decades, Brüning would toil tirelessly along the desert coastline in search of ceramics and cultural artifacts from the Moche, Chimu and Inca. Today, the Brüning National Archaeological Museum is where visitors can view the astounding finds of his years of digging in the dirt. 

In addition to the rooms full of cultural treasures"”including a room filled entirely with gold"”the lower layer showcases Brüning's photography from years of work in the field. Many credit Brüning with being a catalyst for the area's archaeological study, and many of the sites that have been uncovered today could be in part to his dedicated work. Unlike the neighboring Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum, photography is allowed inside the Brüning Museum, and visitors should make an effort to visit both sites during a museum tour of Chiclayo.

When comparing the ancient ruins of the world, Túcume might be the most fascinating site that most people have never heard of. Located 21 miles to the north of Chiclayo, Túcume is home to 26 pyramids that were built over 1,000 years ago. One of these pyramids"”Huaca Larga"”has a base that is over 2,000 ft. in length and was the largest pyramid in the world.

Due to heavy rains, however, these dusty, sand-carved, ancient pyramids have been reduced to eroded mounds, although archeological discoveries continue to be made in the burial chambers below. At Huaca Larga, 119 bodies were discovered deep beneath the pyramid, and evidence suggests that the bodies were part of a mass human sacrifice to the gods. Other findings are less grotesque, such as the murals and carvings of the Lambayeque god Naymlap, a revered deity who emerged from the sea and gave rise to the powerful city. 

As the ancient people of the Lambayeque Valley constructed these towering pyramids, they subsequently abandoned the massive structures when they felt it would please the gods. Today, the area around Túcume is still largely abandoned, the main reason being that local villagers are wary of the spiritual past; only healers and traditional shamans will visit Túcume by night, and there is a palpable sense of power and history when touring Túcume today.

Not many visitors to Peru are aware that it may have been the birthplace of surfing. Here in Huanchaco, however"”a coastal suburb of bustling Trujillo that drifts at a much slower pace"”the traditional reed boats known as caballitos de totora are considered to be the world's first surf craft. When strolling along the oceanfront promenade that runs through Huanchaco's downtown, you're sure to see plenty of the pointy reed boats scattered about the sand.  Rather than simply taking a picture, however, get the firsthand experience by hiring a guide to paddle you out in the surf. With the cool water splashing your legs as you rest firmly on the boat made of reeds, you get the feeling of how Huanchaco's fisherman have been riding these waves for centuries. 

Back in town after your session on the water, grab a table at an ocean view restaurant for the perfect plate of ceviche. With just the right amount of aji spice, Huanchaco is considered by many travelers to have the best ceviche in Peru, and it's the perfect complement to a mellow evening of watching the sun set over the Pacific.  

Huanchaco is also Surf City, Peru, and this is one of the best places on the Peruvian coastline for learning to ride a wave. For those who prefer to stay land based, the archeological sights of Trujillo are only a short taxi ride away, although there are a few sights in Huanchaco itself if you'd prefer to stroll about town. One such sight is the Santuario de la Virgen del Socorro, a white, Colonial, hilltop church which, having been constructed in 1535, is the second oldest church in Peru. Or, for an authentic Huanchaco experience, take a walk through the downtown market to watch local fishermen hawk their catch as fish flop around on the floor. Funky, laidback, and with the sweet smell of sea salt, Huanchaco is the perfect beachside suburb for basing yourself in Trujillo.

To archaeologists, the Lord of Sipan was a Moche noble now known as the “King Tut of Peru.” To centuries of Peruvian grave robbers (huaqueros), he was one grave they wished they’d found. To visitors traveling to the town of Chiclayo, he is the reason why you can walk through a room that is dripping in jewels and gold.  Of all the museums you can visit in Chiclayo, the Royal Tombs Museum of Sipan is one that you absolutely must see.

Buried in a tomb beneath the desert sands to the south of modern day Chiclayo, the Lord of Sipan lay undisturbed for over 1,700 years. In 1987, however, a team of archaeologists unearthed a tomb at the remote Huaca Rajada, and what they found inside is considered to be one of the greatest finds of the last 50 years. Lying inside a wooded sarcophagus were the remains of a king, a warrior, three concubines, two dogs, a llama, a priest and a guard with no feet. Also, there were jewels—lots of gold and jewels.

Today the tomb site and many of its findings are on display at the Royal Tombs Museum of Sipan, a building with a strikingly modern appearance that is modeled after the Moche pyramids. Gaze at headdresses and armored plates made entirely from silver and gold while inwardly contemplating how such valuable pieces remained buried and hidden for so long.

Even though Chiclayo was never a Colonial stronghold during the 17th and 18th centuries, the regal splendor of many of the buildings could lead you to initially think otherwise. One such example is the Municipal Palace, a soaring Republican style building that graces the center of town. This elegant building is so lavish and fantastically ornate, it's estimated the bill to construct the building was paid in 30,000 pounds of gold.

The building was completed in 1919, although political protestors in 2006 caused a raging fire that nearly reduced the entire building to ashes. The structure has since been restored, however, to mimic its original style, and walking by the Municipal Palace today"”its four-story clock tower and parallel arches rising high above the streets of the city"”it manages to cast a fairy-tale atmosphere over an entire city block.