Things to Do in Trujillo

Perhaps one of the most fascinating bits about Peru's ancient Moche culture is that even though they ruled this coastline over 2,000 years ago, we just now today are beginning to unearth the secrets of their civilization. At no place is this more apparent than at the archaeological complex of El Brujo, a collection of temples in the Chicama Valley that depict gruesome scenes of torture and burial and date back over 4,000 years.

Of the three complexes at the El Brujo complex, the Huaca Cao Viejo offers the most for visitors to experience, see, and explore. Constructed by the Moche between 200-600 AD, the Huaca de Cao has interior artwork which is similar to the Huaca de la Luna, although unlike its famous Trujillo counterpart, the artwork here hasn't been restored at all and exists in its original state. This area wasn't excavated until 1990, and dry sands of the coastal desert have been preserving these colorful paintings and murals for well over 1,500 years. 

Archaeologists also curiously unearthed a mummy that had been wrapped in 26 layers of cloth, only to discover it was a young woman who was wearing symbolic pieces of gold. Given the care taken to bury the body, it's believed the woman was one of the few Governesses to exist within the Moche Empire.  Next door, at the Huaca Prieta, the structure by the ocean is believed to date back to 2,500 BC, although excavations are still taking place and the site is closed to the public.

For archaeology and history buffs, Trujillo might be the most fascinating city along the entire coastline of Peru. This dry shoreline has been the historic site of thousands of years of civilizations, and empires in Trujillo have risen and fallen like the sand dunes along the coast. With each passing century, cultural artifacts and artistic relics have been preserved by the desert sands, many of which are on display today at the National University of Trujillo Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology, and History.

Inside of this small museum—which itself is housed in the 17th Century mansion known as La Casa Risco—visitors will find an astounding collection of Pre-Columbian art forms. Displays at the museum include pieces from the Chimu, Moche, and Inca Empires, and the jewelry, clothing, and ceramic artwork are windows into these ancient cultures. More than simply a display of artifacts, the multiple rooms of Casa Risco offer informative displays about the different civilizations that have existed along the coastline. Learn what caused the Empires to collapse and allowed others to rise, and get the latest updates on archaeological finds that are still being pulled from the Earth.

Not many visitors to Peru are aware that it may have been the birthplace of surfing. Here in Huanchaco, however"”a coastal suburb of bustling Trujillo that drifts at a much slower pace"”the traditional reed boats known as caballitos de totora are considered to be the world's first surf craft. When strolling along the oceanfront promenade that runs through Huanchaco's downtown, you're sure to see plenty of the pointy reed boats scattered about the sand.  Rather than simply taking a picture, however, get the firsthand experience by hiring a guide to paddle you out in the surf. With the cool water splashing your legs as you rest firmly on the boat made of reeds, you get the feeling of how Huanchaco's fisherman have been riding these waves for centuries. 

Back in town after your session on the water, grab a table at an ocean view restaurant for the perfect plate of ceviche. With just the right amount of aji spice, Huanchaco is considered by many travelers to have the best ceviche in Peru, and it's the perfect complement to a mellow evening of watching the sun set over the Pacific.  

Huanchaco is also Surf City, Peru, and this is one of the best places on the Peruvian coastline for learning to ride a wave. For those who prefer to stay land based, the archeological sights of Trujillo are only a short taxi ride away, although there are a few sights in Huanchaco itself if you'd prefer to stroll about town. One such sight is the Santuario de la Virgen del Socorro, a white, Colonial, hilltop church which, having been constructed in 1535, is the second oldest church in Peru. Or, for an authentic Huanchaco experience, take a walk through the downtown market to watch local fishermen hawk their catch as fish flop around on the floor. Funky, laidback, and with the sweet smell of sea salt, Huanchaco is the perfect beachside suburb for basing yourself in Trujillo.

The Temples de Moche (Huacas de Moche), are Trujillo’s two most important sites that date to the Moche Empire. It’s hard to enough to fathom that civilizations existed here over 2,000 years ago, and even harder to fathom how some of their artwork has miraculously managed to remain. 

At the Huaca de la Luna—Temple of the Moon—archaeologists are still uncovering frescoes which were thankfully missed by looters. Many of the paintings depict the deity Ayapec, whose snarling face and animated teeth are found on everything from ceramics to walls. It’s also believed that Huaca de Luna was a site of human sacrifice, and diggers have unearthed dozens of remains that suggest torture, warfare, and sacrifice.  Given the murals and the human remains, it’s highly likely that the Huaca de Luna was a site of religious importance, and walking the corridors of the temple today is as enchanting as it is surreal. 

Across the dusty Moche Valley, the Huaca del Sol—Temple of the Sun—rises 135 feet from the desert and is comprised of over 50 million bricks. It’s officially classified as the world’s largest adobe structure, although due to heavy looting by the Spanish and damage from El Niño rains, the temple hasn’t been excavated as heavily and is closed to the general public.

Temple of the Dragon (Huaco el Dragon) is an immaculately preserved Chimú temple just outside Trujillo. The pyramid-shaped adobe structure features intricate frieze murals depicting rainbows, dragons, and figures that have valiantly stood the test of time. Less known than other Chimú sites, this anti-seismic temple is an engineering marvel.

 

With a local guide, learn the history and various theories surrounding the mysterious pre-Inca site, also known as Huaca Arco Iris (Rainbow Temple), built by the Chimú people, who lived in northern Peru from about AD 900 to the 1400s. Inside the temple, the namesake figure carved on the walls takes the form of a two-headed creature like a dragon, but with countless legs like a centipede. Scholars believe the temple’s rainbow carvings, which represent rain—a precious life-giving resource here in the dry coastal desert—are a tribute to fertility. There is also evidence that the walls were once painted, although erosion from rains and centuries of looting have left the walls with only a hint of yellow glow. 

Travelers often visit this religious administrative and ceremonial center as part of an archaeological tour out of Trujillo that also includes larger temple complexes such as Chan Chan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

 

 

Temple of the Dragon is located about 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) outside of Trujillo in the La Esperanza suburb. You can reach the temple via public bus from Trujillo (there is a drop off in front of the temple), or by taxi or private tour. Inquire at your hotel about the best way to arrive.

The temple is open daily from 9am to 4pm.

Gain a greater understanding of the Chimú civilization by venturing from Temple of the Dragon to the nearby Chan Chan site. As the largest pre-Columbian city in South America, the adobe-walled archeological complex was the center of Chimú culture and politics until 1470, when the Incas arrived and promptly conquered the city. Led by a guide, explore the vast array of shrines, burial grounds, rain reservoirs, and ceremonial plazas flanked by walls adorned with friezes.