Things to Do in Northern Portugal

The Douro region in Northeast Portugal is near the border with Spain. Even with the advent of modern civilization, this area is characterized by a sort of frontier spirit that tenaciously preserves a traditional way of life handed down through many, many years.

Thinly populated and remote, the Douro is not unlike Galicia in Spain in that its people speak a dialect that is markedly different than the rest of the country; in the Douro, it is closer to Latin vulgate than Portuguese. Along with speaking a traditional language, pottery and weaving are still important cottage industries. Long-held folk practices include a dance with wooden staves called the Dance of the Pauliteiros, which takes place on the third Sunday of August, during the Feast of Saint Barbara. Curiously, this dance is less related to Saint Barbara than it is to Roman martial pomp – the Dance of the Pauliteiros is an outgrowth of the old Roman sword dances.

Notable ruins in the town of Miranda do Douro include the watchtower of the Miranda do Douro castle and the Baroque courtyard left behind from the long-since-destroyed Archbishop’s palace. The city’s cathedral is also of interest; it features a magnificent marble high altar as well as a 19th century ex-voto centered around a piece called “Infant Jesus in a Top Hat.”

In Roman times, Aveiro was known as Aviarium, which in Latin means “gathering of birds” due to the large number of birds inhabiting the city’s lagoon area. Today, Aveiro is known for being one of the largest metropolitan areas in Portugal (when associated with nearby Ílhavo). It’s also known as the “Venice of Portugal,” as its city is crossed with canals on which boats called barcos moliceiros ferry passengers to and fro.

Aveira’s fortunes have always been tied to the Ria (estuary) and the sea. In contemporary times, the Ria is linked to Aveiro via three canals: the Canal das Pirâmides (marked at its entrance by two stone pyramids), which flows into the Canal de São Roque, and the Canal do Paraíso. Travelers may want to book a tour or plan one of their own that familiarizes them with canals, as they are major avenues of transit and can be overwhelming to first-time visitors.

In terms of attractions, Aveiro’s canals are certainly a must-see. The city’s old-world charm and colorful buildings are underscored by the brightly colored barcos moliceiros pushing across the channels, and the Ria is a fascinating landscape, crisscrossed by intersecting waterways and finger-like peninsulas.  Likewise, the city’s beaches are among the best in the country, and surfing is a popular pastime. As the city came into its own in the middle ages, visitors can expect to find centuries-old buildings, including the Aveiro Cathedral and the Igreja de la Misericordia, designed by 18th-century Italian Architect Nicolau Nasoni.

Allegedly established by a Roman centurion named Amarantus, Amarante is situated between the steep sides of Serra do Marão and the curves of the river Tâmega, the longest tributary of the river Douro. Modern Amarante is actually rooted in the 13th century, when the Benedictine monk St. Gonçalo settled in the area after completing a pilgrimage to Italy and Jerusalem. He is said to have commissioned the original bridge over the river Tâmega, located in the same spot as modern times.

In addition to its centurion, saint and bridge, Amarante is known for its sweets and cakes, and these are easy to find in many of the region's cake-shops and cafés. However, during the Feast of Sao Gonçalo, Amarante’s baked goods become famous for a different reason: they’re baked in the shape of phalluses, Sao Gonçalo is the patron saint of marriage and lovers. As suggestively shaped confections are not the norm for a Catholic Saint’s day, the tradition is likely rooted in a pagan fertility ritual.

Visitors to Amarante will want to take advantage of the region’s natural beauty and outdoor activities. Not to miss: hiking up to Serra do Marão in order to admire its breathtaking landscape. Near this mountain is Ansiães Valley. Here you will find trout farms on the right bank of the Ovelha River, as well as gorgeous sylvan scenery.