Things to Do in Normandy

Indeed, it was successfully captured by British paratroopers on June 6, 1944, because they mistakenly believed the battery contained heavy-caliber weapons that could threaten the nearby beach landings. They discovered, however, that what it contained, essentially, was inoffensive World War I vintage guns. The battery also comprised four six-foot-thick, steel-reinforced concrete gun casemates, designed to protect mountain guns, as well as a command bunker, dorms and ammunition magazines. After the British left the battery to liberate a nearby village, Merville was once again taken over by the Germans until they withdrew France in the following month of August. 

Omaha Beach, with its Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, receives the most visitors looking to learn more about WWII history and pay their respects. But what many don't know is that Utah Beach, the westernmost landing point of the D-Day battle, has its own fantastic museum. If you're planning an overnight stay in Bayeux in order to explore the various WWII sites in Normandy, the Utah Beach D-Day Museum should be right near the top of your list.

Unlike the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, which technically lies on U.S. soil, the Utah Beach D-Day Museum is a French endeavor, and as such it carries the official name of Musée du Débarquement Utah Beach – and its motto translates to, “Their Sacrifice, Our Freedom.” However, you can be sure that everything in the museum is titled in English, so no need to worry.

What's most interesting about this museum is that it delves into life in the region under German occupation; in other words, what it was like before the Allies landed and swept through to Paris. Nazis took the region a full four years before D-Day, and the oral histories of the locals who survived are enlightening, to say the least. 

Also interesting is the German defenses exhibit, which shows exactly what the Allies were up against along the Normandy coast, and especially here at Utah Beach. It's housed in one of the original bunkers, and gives you the German perspective on the day without defending it.

Being the highest point between Omaha and Utah Beaches, the cliffs of Pointe du Hoc was an important location in the Atlantic Wall strategy of defense against the Allies. So on D-Day, it was an equally important target to overtake so that the liberation of France could proceed.

In what can only be described as old-school warfare, the the American Second Ranger Battalion climbed the 100-foot-high cliff to seize the weapons that could take out approaching Allied boats. It was an epic battle, but the Americans ultimately emerged victorious – albeit with significant loss of life. 

Today, the cliffside of Pointe du Hoc is the location of a monument to this battle, which was built by the French directly on top of the German bunker that was seized by the Americans. Unlike many of the WWII battle sites that have memorials or museums, this location has remained largely untouched since the battle that occurred here; visitors can still see the scars on the ground and it's easy to see why this was such an important stronghold. 

The World War II Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument is about a half-hour from Bayeux on the way to the American Cemetery and Memorial, and should be a stop during any WWII battle sites tour in Normandy. Although the monument does have an inscription, it's best to visit with a tour guide to put the location as well as the battle fought here into context.

Like many popular destinations in France – the Loire Valley and Provence to name just two - the Pays d'Auge is not a place with specific geographic or political borders within France. There's no mayor or governor of Pays d'Auge, and locals from the region of Normandy, where it's generally agreed to be located, will most likely have differing opinions as to exactly what's in and out of the Pays d'Auge.

That being said, here's a general idea: its northern border runs from just east of Caen to where the coast makes a dramatic turn towards Le Havre, and runs inland about halfway to Alençon. So, why is the  Pays d'Auge even a thing if no one can point to it on a map, exactly? It all has to do with AOC, or the appellation d'origine contrôlée. The Pays d'Auge appellation is given to specific agricultural products that come from the farms within its “borders” - cheeses, ciders, and calvados included. 

A visit to the Pays d'Auge yields not only a feast to fell any foodie, but lush green fields, half-timbered farm houses with thatched roofs, and a culture unlike any other in France. Visitors to the area for WWII memorials and museums should take the time to travel through the Pays d'Auge; it's a welcome contrast to the somber experiences of the coastline's history.

Located in a former episcopal palace in the heart of Bayeaux, the Le Musée d’art et d’histoire Baron-Gérard (MAHB) is a museum dedicated to recounting the backstory of both French painting and Normandy. Established in 2013, it is carefully curated and well laid out on two levels with 14 chronological collections spanning prehistory to the 20th century.

Highlights among the paintings include great works by Rococo artist François Boucher, Neo-classicist David, Gustave Corot — the precursor of the Impressionists — Gustave Caillebotte and Eugène Boudin. The museum also houses one of France’s most important collections of handmade 18th-century Bayeaux lace, lovingly displayed in the bishops’ former private apartments, which are still decorated with original wooden carvings. There’s an equally impressive display of Bayeaux porcelain and more than 800 archaeological artifacts excavated across the region of Calvados; each gallery is equipped with multi-lingual touchscreens to keep kids involved in the exhibition.

The palace itself has a few surprises to spring: Romanesque vaults; grand staircases; a French Renaissance chapel dating from the mid 16th century and swathed in cherubs, and a 17th century courtroom. Entrance to MAHB can be combined with tickets to see the Bayeux Tapestry and the Memorial Museum of the Battle of Normandy.

As one of Normandy’s D-Day landing beaches, Omaha beach was the backdrop to one of the most significant events of World War II, immortalized in the movie Saving Private Ryan and forever etched into history. Today, visitors to Omaha Beach can follow in the footsteps of the Allied soldiers and pay their respects at the American Cemetery.

Guided tours of the five D-Day beaches—Utah Beach, Omaha Beach, Gold Beach, Juno Beach, and Sword Beach—run from Bayeux, Caen, Le Havre, Carentan, and Paris, and often include visits to other Normandy battlefields such as Pointe du Hoc, Arromanches, and Pegasus Bridge. For a more personalized experience, opt for a private tour or small-group tour and choose to focus on the American, Canadian, or British sites and memorials. 

Omaha Beach is located along the coast of Normandy in northern France, 15 miles (24 kilometers) northwest of Bayeux. Although buses run to the beach from Bayeux, the easiest way to visit is by private transportation or as part of a guided tour. The American Cemetery lies above the beach, from where a long walkway heads down to the beach itself.

Tours run to Omaha Beach year-round, but it can get busy during peak summer season. If you’re visiting in July and August, try to arrive early morning or early evening to avoid the large groups of day-trippers. The most moving time to visit is during the annual D-Day Festival, which commemorates the anniversary of the Allied Landings with a program of memorials, parades, and beachside picnics. 

Omaha Beach was the location of one of the most significant battles World War II. On June 6th 1944, American troops were given the task of securing Omaha beach as part of a strategy to land Allied troops along five points on the coast of Normandy—an operation code-named D-Day. Due to unforeseen tidal forces and stronger than expected German defenses, the American soldiers suffered massive losses—2,400 casualties in a day of bloody fighting. However, the landing was eventually successful with 34,000 troops securing the area for the Allies, and thus beginning the end of the war.

Often regarded as one of the greatest engineering feats of World War Two, the Mulberry Harbour was a portable and temporary structure developed by the British to facilitate speedy discharging of cargo onto the beaches on D-Day. It was, in fact, two different artificial harbors, which were towed across the English Channel and assembled just off the coast of Normandy on that infamous morning. Once fully operational, Mulberry Harbour was capable of moving 7,000 tons of vehicles and goods each day.  The harbors provided the Allies with landing ramps, necessary for the invasion of an otherwise unprotected coast. Violent storms shook the English Channel between June 19 and 22, 1944, effectively wrecking the better part of both harbors. Remains are, however, still visible a few hundred yards from Arromanches’ shoreline, continuing to remind visitors of the sheer engineering genius that emanated from the D-Day landings. The remains are best visible during low tide. The D-Day Museum nearby provides invaluable knowledge on the historical background and technical challenges that the harbors presented. 

The Normandy town of Honfleur is home to St Catherine’s Church, the largest surviving wooden chapel in France. Built after the Hundred Years’ War by local 15th-century shipbuilders, the “Axe Masters” managed to create the impressive nave without using one saw. A century later, the chapel’s patronage had grown so much that it was decided St Catherine’s Church should be doubled in size. A second identical nave was built to match the first, giving the chapel an interesting “twin” architecture, so when you head inside the church look up at the ceiling—you’ll see it looks just like two upturned boats, which makes sense considering the naval background of its builders. 

Dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria, the church is partially covered in chestnut shingles, while the interior pillars are decorated in colorful flags from around the world. You’ll see light streaming in through the 19th-century stained glass windows, and look out for the church’s classical organ from the parish St Vincent of Rouen, too. 

Located in the heart of Calvados, just a few kilometers from the Channel, stands the Ranville War Cemetery. It contains a majority of British soldiers of the 6th Airborne Division (and also Canadian and German soldiers) that were killed during early stages of the Battle of Normandy in the Second World War. In fact, Ranville was the first village to be liberated by the Allies on the morning of June 6, 1944 – more commonly known as D-Day. Indeed, the village was secured by British and Canadian troops, landed nearby by parachute and glider on a mission to secure the bridge over the Caen Canal. This wasn’t achieved easily, though, as the skies were quite windy on that meaningful day and the area was, in reality, much larger than what had been expected. 

Ranville War Cemetery is located by the ancient Ranville Chapel, a graded 10th-century building. It is laid out in a typical French garden design, with immaculately kept landscapes and manicured grounds. Within the cemetery stands a Cross of Sacrifice (designed by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, it is the archetypal British war memorial), an octagonal-shaped, elongated Latin cross with Celtic dimensions carved out of white Portland stone. Ranville War Cemetery contains 2,560 burials, including the grave of Lieutenant Den Brotheridge, considered to be the first Allied death on D-Day. 

The chic seaside town of Trouville-sur-Mer is a popular getaway among Parisians seeking respite from the city. Twinned with the even ritzier town of Deauville next door, Trouville maintains its traditional roots as a glamorous beach resort and working fishing port, with Trouville fishermen still seeking out shrimp, mackerel, scallops and sole today. 

Less touristy than Deauville, Trouville has long been a hotspot for bohemians, and in the 19th century, writers like Flaubert and famous French artists including Mozin and Boudin came here to be inspired and enjoy the laid-back vibe. Trouville still has a flavor of the Belle Epoque about it, and a real authenticity can be felt in this maritime town, especially at the lively Fish Market (Marché aux Poissons). 

Along with Deauville, Trouville is the closest beach to Paris, making it a popular weekend destination. In summer, the town really heats up, especially on the boardwalk that stretches along its golden sands stuffed with colorful parasols and sunbathers. Connected to Deauville by the pont des Belges bridge, it’s also possible to get to Deauville via a footpath at the mouth of the river during low tide.

Before June 6, 1944 the Bénouville Bridge was simply a way for locals to cross the Canal de Caen quickly and easily. But the Allied troops knew that the Germans also used this bridge to send supplies and reinforcements to their troops along the beaches of Normandy – and so it was a priority to seize control of it as soon as possible to help the D-Day operation.

And so on that day, the British 6th Airborne Division arrived silently in gliders and after only 10 minutes, had secured the bridge. From then on it was known as the Pegasus Bridge, in honor of the insignia on the brave soldiers' uniforms. 

Although the original bridge has been replaced thanks to modern engineering, there is still a memorial at the site, as well as a museum that focuses on the role of the Airborne Division in Operation Overlord. A fairly new museum, inaugurated only in 2000, its collection continues to grow and so is a wonderful experience even for repeat visitors.

For the historian as well as the curious traveler, the WWII battle sites along the coast of Normandy can be a powerful draw. However, in the interest of time, many choose to stick to the more popular memorials and museums of Omaha and Utah Beaches. But by heading east from Bayeux instead of west, one hits a veritable jackpot of sites, memorials and museums dedicated to D-Day, but are blessedly under-visited.

It can be easy to pass through the sleepy coastal towns of Ouistreham and Lion-sur-Mer and forget that anything as monumental as the D-Day landings happened here. But the pristine beaches you see were filled with British soldiers on that fateful day, sent in to shore up this flank and take care of some German bunkers as well. And in just these few miles, there are roughly ten points of interest to discover. Here are the highlights of what not to miss when visiting the area from Bayeux.

First, there is the Grand Bunker Atlantic Wall Museum in Ouistreham. It's located inside the German headquarters that took three days to be secured by the British. The museum has taken great pains to recreate the bunker as it was at the time, down to the smallest detail, and within it is incorporated various exhibits and presentations about the Atlantic Wall and its importance in the Allies' victory.

To gain perspective on how the events at Sword Beach played into the overall D-Day landings, visit the Musée No. 4 Commando, also in Ouistreham. Here you will find a well laid-out story that takes you through the day and what followed as well. This is especially popular with British visitors, and is a powerful reminder to Americans that it was indeed Allied forces participating in D-Day. The town of  Ouistreham also has several monuments in honor of the fallen.

There are monuments, museums, and remnants from the war in Lion-sur-Mer, Hermanville-sur-Mer, and Douvres la Délivrande, as well as the Pegasus Bridge in Ranville. WWII buffs will know these places by heart; if you're not as knowledgeable, it really is best to take a guided tour, as many important sites can be easily overlooked by the untrained eye.

The medieval island village of Mont Saint-Michel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, sits right off France’s Atlantic coast at the mouth of the Couesnon River. Crowned by a Gothic abbey that sits atop the rocky isle, Mont Saint-Michel rises dramatically from the tidal flats of the bay, creating one of the country’s most recognizable images. It’s a must-see for history buffs and those interested in religious sites, and visits are often combined with tours through the region of Normandy.

Visiting Mont Saint-Michel on a day trip from Paris is a popular option for travelers who are short on time and would rather not drive themselves. The village’s Benedictine abbey (Abbaye du Mont Saint-Michel), named after the archangel Michael, is the main attraction in the area, and its entrance fee is included in some tours. Some visitors with more time to explore spend a few days in the Normandy town of Caen or Bayeux for easier access to the island and a chance to see other northern France attractions such as the D-Day landing beaches of World War II and the coastal village of Honfleur.

Mont Saint-Michel is located about 220 miles (354 kilometers) west of Paris, roughly four hours away by road. Driving or taking a bus tour is the quickest way to reach the island, but train and public bus options are also available through Caen, Rennes, and Pontorson.

Mont Saint-Michel’s tourist office is open every day except Christmas Day and New Year’s Day, while the abbey is closed January 1, May 1, and December 25. As a small island, it’s a popular destination with limited space, so arrive early to avoid some crowds, which are the biggest in summer.

After paying your entrance fee to the abbey, grab a visitor’s guide for a self-guided tour of the Gothic landmark’s cloister and rooms. Alternatively, guided 75-minute tours in French and English are available year-round; they are included in admission with no reservation required. To hear commentary without a live guide, purchase a 1-hour audio guide for a small fee.